LANCASHIRE ROCK

1 - Puppy Dog Pie

Grade: 4c,4c | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 0

Start at the right-hand side of Space Buttress, about 25 metres right of the fixed rope.

1.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:

Climb the deep crack for eight metres, then move diagonally right to a ledge and belay.

1.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:

Climb the corner and chimney above to a tree belay.

2 - Air City

Grade: 5b,5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1970/1979)
Rating: 0

2.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:

Start just right of the top of the fixed rope and climb a groove to a small ledge (peg). Continue up to a larger ledge (peg belay).

2.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Swing left on to the wall, then move up for three metres and traverse right to a shallow groove. Climb this and the steep wall above, then traverse easily left to the top.

3 - T.M.A.

Grade: 5a,5a,4c | First Ascent: -1979
Rating: 0

The easiest way up Space Buttress. An interesting outing.

3.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:

As for the first pitch of Book of Invasions.

3.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Traverse right along a fragile break to a peg belay on Air City.

3.3 - Pitch 3

Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:

Follow Air City for nine metres to below the shallow groove, then traverse right across the steep wall to an easier-angled groove and follow this to the top.

4 - The Book of Invasions

Grade: 4c,6a | First Ascent: (Pre-1970/1979/1982)
Rating: 0

An exciting route up the centre of Space Buttress.

4.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:

From just left of the top of the fixed rope, climb the big curving groove to a hanging stance beside a holly tree.

4.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 6a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Move left to a ledge, then climb the wall and overhang to a flat hold (peg and threads), reach up left to a small hidden sidepull and climb the wall (peg) to a depression below a final bulge (poor peg). Climb the thin crack above which fades out, and make a hard move right to gain the easy groove above.

5 - Zona Norte

Grade: 6a,6b | First Ascent: -1996
Rating: 0

A superb route consisting of two contrasting pitches. The first, steep and fingery, the second bulging and powerful. The climbing is adequately protected by good but spaced resin anchors which make the route a Resin Erection Shuffle.

5.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 6a | First Ascent:
Rating:

From the start of Book of Invasions, follow a line of bolts three metres leftwards to reach the holly tree belay, ignoring any opportunity to traverse off the line onto easier ground above the last bolt.

5.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 6b | First Ascent:
Rating:

Attack the overhang above (crux) utilizing small flakes and layaways to reach a break. Gain a standing position over the roof above, then continue to layback the shallow groove to the final bulge. A thin rockover to the right brings the belay within reach. Abseil descent.

6 - Introducing the Hardline

Grade: 6b,6a | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 0

A complete contrast to the other routes. Approach as for The Book of Invasions, bolt belay.

6.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 6b | First Ascent:
Rating:

From the first bolt on Zona Norte, trend diagonally left to a line of bolts. Follow this steeply (crux) to the sixth bolt and enter the hanging groove above, which slants rightwards to the hanging belay on The Book of Invasions.

6.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 6a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Move up and right (peg) from the tree to a tape and pass it to gain a bolt. Climb through the bulge above to a second bolt then traverse right for two metres and pull over a second bulge to a third bolt. Step up and right (peg on left) and finish up the right arête.

7 - Men at Work

Grade: 6b,6b | First Ascent: -1996
Rating: 0

Another excellent route taking a direct, uncompromising line up the crag. The climbing is sustained and exciting. Protection is again provided by good but spaced resin anchors.

7.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 6b | First Ascent:
Rating:

Start at the left end of the large ledge, five metres left of the fixed rope. Climb the shallow groove to a bulge and turn this on the right, then step left and make a fingery pull up to better holds (crux). Continue in a direct line, crossing Prometheus Crisis on the way, to a bolt belay at the break.

7.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 6b | First Ascent:
Rating:

Pull over the bulge directly above the belay. Continue trending right for about nine metres (Prometheus Crisis) to where that route escapes rightwards. Step straight up, then steep fingery climbing leads to the top. For maximum enjoyment, be sure to climb past the bolt belay to the bucket finish about one metre above and to the left. Abseil descent.

8 - Ten Years Gone

Grade: 6c,6a | First Ascent: -1996
Rating: 0

A truly magnificent route. Two contrasting pitches, the first is long, hard, and sustained, the second is easier but more exposed. Protection is again provided by good but spaced resin anchors.

8.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 6c | First Ascent:
Rating:

From the start of Men at Work stumble leftwards for three metres on poor rock to the sanctuary of the first of six bolts. Get established on the bulging wall above and sprint for six metres (crux) to a rest in a shallow groove. Follow the groove to where it peters out at the traverse of Prometheus Crisis and continue up the smooth wall above to the mid-height belay ledge. Thin and technical.

8.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 6a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Traverse right for three metres and pull over the bulge above as for Prometheus Crisis. Once established, continue straight up a thin, intermittent crack, following a line of bolts to the belay. Abseil descent.

9 - The Prometheus Crisis

Grade: 5b,5c | First Ascent: (1979/1982)
Rating: 0

A superb, intricate line on the left side of Space Buttress. Start about 10 metres below the bolt belay on Aqualung. This is best reached by a precarious scramble, or a short abseil from Aqualung.

9.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:

Step right round the rib and climb a short groove to a horizontal break. Follow this rightwards for eight metres (peg), then move up to a shallow depression (thread) and go up to a spike below the overhang on The Book of Invasions. Move right to a hanging belay.

9.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
Rating:

Move left past the spike for six metres to a thread, then pull over an overhang to a good flake. Move up for three metres, then traverse right round a vague rib to the junction with The Book of Invasions. Follow the thin crack above with a hard move rightwards to finish up a groove (as for Book of Invasions). Abseil descent.

10 - Aqualung

Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 0

This is the deep chimney which bounds Space Buttress on its left. Note that fifty metres of rope are needed to enable the leader to reach the belay. From the path at the base of the crag, traverse easily rightwards to the chimney to a bolt belay in the cave at its foot. Climb the chimney on good holds to the cave at its top (possible belay). Traverse right across the wall to instant exposure and move round the lip of the roof to finish easily, then belay at a stake well back.