LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The North Face

  • 59 - Don`t Look Down

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres to the right of a prominent clean-cut groove at the right-hand side of the wall. Follow a crack to the top past a dirty window at three metres. Sustained.

  • 60 - Whoops Apocalypse

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres to the right and follow the shallow, stepped groove.

  • 61 - Penwood Groove

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    From the base of the mound, climb the broken groove at the left side of a large block-overhang at mid-height.

  • 62 - Penwood Forge Mill

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the prominent corner past the large block-overhang at mid-height to reach a large ledge directly above the overhang. Finish on the right.

  • 63 - Sunsalve

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The thin crack in the right wall of the corner.

  • 64 - One Step Farther

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    A sustained route. From blocks at the foot of the next corner, traverse left to a deep niche on the arête. Leave this by a crack on its right, then step left and climb a thin crack to a large ledge. Finish easily.

  • 64a - Direct Start

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating:

  • 65 - Anxiety

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    The steep corner crack, which is currently very overgrown.

  • 66 - What I`d Give for a Friend

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Six metres to the right is a flake crack below a wide-angled groove. Climb to the base of this via a V-shaped slot then continue up the crack and groove above.

  • 67 - Pike

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The next deep corner crack to the right is climbed by finger-jams and bridging.

  • 68 - Captain Mainwaring

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    The arête on the right is climbed on its right.

  • 69 - Fraser

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1986)
    Rating: 0

    Immediately before the boulder bridge there is a short pillar. Climb the groove on the left of the pillar, step up on to the pillar, then step left and climb the crack immediately above the overlap.

  • 70 - Dad`s Army

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1986)
    Rating: 0

    The deep groove on the right side of the pillar is climbed to a small triangular roof, then finish up the wide crack above.