Climbing guides found for: Rossendale
Deeply Vale is a very solid gritstone quarry above a small reservoir on the moors about four kilometres north-east of Bury, midway between the M66 and the A680 (Owd Betts road)% The crag comprises a series of arêtes and corners, between which lie steep, slabby walls, punctuated at times by good cracklines, with the huge roof of Mein Kampf in the centre.
The first known recorded routes here were the work of Mick Pooler and friends. By 1961 they had climbed such routes as The Crack, Central Arête, Crystal Climb and Inflexion, with a peg above the metal hook. Pooler also made an aided ascent of Leftless (which was originally called Twilight Crack, because it was finished in the dark)% A few days later, Pooler succeeded in soloing to a ledge at mid-height on the arête left of Inflexion and left an old halfpenny on it as evidence of his ascent. Two days later, he led the excellent Ha`penny Arête and reclaimed his trophy. Pooler then attempted to climb the central corner of the crag but was repulsed, and the following day Harry Taylor, who had been waiting in the wings, stepped in to snatch Renegade Corner. Later that year Pooler and Taylor created the Girdle, using some tension to reach the lip of the large overhang. It took just over 20 years before this aid was dispensed with by Phil Kelly in 1982. The year ended with a partially aided ascent of Scoop and Traverse by Pooler, though he repeated the route the following year without any aid. Pooler`s last addition at the crag was Nod`s Nightmare, which he climbed in 1965 with Michael Day.
This quarry which is affectionately known as `Docky Dam` lies in woods above an old mill lodge, just north of the A680 at Norden, about five kilometres north west of Rochdale. Because the crag is in trees, it is fairly green, but this does not interfere with the climbing and it is often in condition when other crags are not. However, it is mainly of local interest and value.
The routes were all ascended by Bruce Goodwin, Tony Nichols and Clive Morton in 1984.
The quarry is owned by North West Water, whose managers are happy to permit climbing.
This quarry is situated eight kilometres north of Bury, just above Ramsbottom, and one kilometre from the prominent local landmark of Peel Tower. There are in fact two quarries on this site; the first (smaller)%one has some boulder problems, whilst all the routes described lie in the second (larger)%quarry. Climbing here, on the whole, can only be described as mediocre, and mostly for the connoisseur of loose finishes on vegetated rock, but nevertheless, one or two of the routes are worth seeking out.
Harcle`s Hill was first explored by Dave Cronshaw and Phil Warner in 1977, with Warner soloing first ascents of Black Maria and the awkward Court Jester, and following Cronshaw up The Judge, Jailbreak and the clean arête of Blue Lamp.
This quarry is situated only four kilometres north of Rochdale, above Spring Mill Reservoir in Whitworth. The crag is literally a box-shaped hole in the ground, with a shorter wall above and to one side of the main quarry. The climbs are on sound rock, although the usual care applicable to quarried rock should be observed. The crag is very sheltered, and is at its best during the warmer periods. Some tipping has taken place in the past though this in no way affects the climbing, but the crag has been used little over the past couple of years, and some vegetation is starting to return. Although it now awaits a new generation of cleaners, nevertheless, some of the climbs are still worth doing.
The quarry was first visited in the late 1960s when its thick mantle of turf and loose rock presented quite a problem in those far-off days of on-sight leads and `get up it somehow` techniques. Two corners were climbed by persons unknown, and it is possible that these are the two routes now known as Cross Bred and The Lamb.
The quarry is on land owned by North West Water, whose managers are happy to permit climbing.
The quarry is situated across the valley from Harcles Hill, five kilometres north of Bury and about two kilometres south-east of the centre of Ramsbottom. It is less than two kilometres from Deeply Vale and the rock is very similar. However, whilst it is higher and more extensive than Deeply Vale, some sections are a little more broken. Much of the quarry is dominated by large square-cut roofs, which are penetrated by some interesting climbing. The quarry is a suntrap and like Deeply Vale it is an ideal crag for an evening visit.
The quarry was discovered by Gareth Parry, Mike and Chris Preston in 1986. The original route of the quarry was Necromicon, by Parry, who soon followed this up with ascents of Necromicon Arête, Necromicon Right-hand, Madman`s Paradise and Acid Test, all solo. Other early ascents were Bogtrotter`s Bench and Six Nipples of Love by Tony Lancashire and Love Under Will by Mike Preston. Soon Matt Nuttall and Alan Holden discovered the delights of the quarry and between them, they climbed Dead as a Door Matt, Central Bowl Crack, Rock On and Roll Off, Hari Kari Hooker, The Phantom Trundler and Alan`s Route. Parry then added Hallucinogenics (solo)%and Two Scoop or Not Two Scoop, whilst Nuttall added Willy Wonker and the traverse with Holden.
The farmer, Mr Brown, has granted permission to climb in the quarry, provided that access is made via the white gate.
Tonacliffe Quarry is situated on the western edge of Roshy Hill, overlooking the Whitworth Valley just north of Healey. It reaches nine metres in places and is a quarried gritstone. The rock is reasonable, although the ravages of the past few winters have caused some rock fall. There is some dubious rock, but this is obvious and does not usually interfere with the climbs, or the enjoyment thereof. It is a well-used crag, being popular for evening or `short day` visits.
The original pioneers of the quarry are unknown, except that Derek Clutterbuck has climbed here for many years and still lives below the crag. Many of the problems are traditional, though many should have Derek`s name tagged to them. He used to visit the quarry regularly and solo Layaway Wall (some say nightly in summer) to prove to himself that he could still do the business.
There is no access problem but care must be taken if approaching by car as thoughtless parking will give offence to the local householders.
Troy Quarry overlooks Haslingden Grane about three kilometres north-west of Haslingden. The quarry is composed of fine-grained grit with many cleavage lines due to the quarry working methods. It is of open aspect, and the south and west-facing walls dry out rapidly after rain. The rock is (generally) sound and the protection usually good. Belay stakes are in place on The West Face, but are limited on The South Face. However, a new fence (please do not damage this) with solid posts provides safe but distant belay points.
During the 1970s, John Ryden and John Grundy led some routes, but found the character of the rock wanting and abandoned the quarry in disgust. In 1982, Ian Conway, Tony Nichols and Mark Leach together with Bruce Goodwin and Clive Morton began new explorations with an extensive quarrying campaign. This resulted in many of the main lines being climbed. Collectively, they climbed Jussy, The Flea, Pink Edge, Tower of Orthank, Huntington`s Chorea and Rapunzle, plus several other routes including One Step Farther by Mark Leach, which is still the hardest route in the quarry and has seen very few ascents. He also added Rock Lobster with Mick Johnston, whilst Bruce contributed Sounder. Pete Cain and Greg Rimmer visited once and contributed Fraser and Dad`s Army. Alan Cameron and John Mason climbed several routes, including a direct finish to Sounder with Dave Etherington and Shadowfax.