LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Long Wall

  • 38 - Jussy

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    The corner between the buttress and the long wall is followed direct.

  • 39 - Two Dabs

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb Jussy for about five metres, then move left to a crackline and go up this with two `dabs` (shallow pockets) right to the top.

  • 40 - The Flea

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    Climb the next, shallow corner on the left to a niche, then exit via a thin crack.

  • 41 - Grane Wall

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 2

    A justly popular climb. Start just left of a sandy recess and follow the wall to a small overlap, then ascend the fine crack above.

  • 42 - Huntington`s Chorea

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    Start three metres to the left and climb the very thin crack that runs the entire height of the wall.

  • 43 - Distemper

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the groove/crack system on the loose rock. Escape from the vegetated cave any way you can!

  • 44 - Deep Throat

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the obvious overhanging chimney that rises behind a large leaf of rock. Finish directly at the top.

  • 45 - Fallen Friend

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    The wall on the left is climbed direct to a bottomless groove. Go up this and pull out right at the top to finish.

  • 46 - Curlew

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the cracked wall just right of Dovetail, moving right for a runner at six metres.

  • 47 - Dovetail

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 2

    Climb the V-shaped groove to the top. A good exercise in bridging.

  • 48 - Grooved Arête

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Start a couple of metres farther left, at a short groove capped by an overhang. Climb the left edge of this groove and continue up the blocky arête above.

  • 49 - Troy Corner

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The obvious ferny corner at a higher level is climbed via twin cracks to a V-chimney and the top.

  • 50 - Troy Wall

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Follow Troy Corner to the horizontal fault, move left to a steep groove above the sapling and follow this to the top. A poor route.

  • 51 - Annic

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the short right-facing corner then move right to a small, pod-like crack in the upper wall and finish up this.

  • 52 - The Triumvirate

    Grade: 5a,5c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

  • 52.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb Annic then follow a line right to the corner, and continue to the arête. Cross Dovetail, then move right and go up to gain the top of the chimney of Deep Throat. Descend this to a step right, then move right again to a belay in the deep corner of Distemper.

  • 52.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Move right on to a footledge and cross to a crack (on Grane Wall) and then go down to the niche on The Flea. Continue at this level to Jussy. Move up the crack system of Pillar Cracks to the second groove, step around the corner on good handholds on to Revenge of the Bendy Ents and continue to the ledge on Pink Edge and finish up this route.

  • 53 - Pisa

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    Climb the pillar, trending right at the top.

  • 54 - Dusky

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the short right-facing, right-angled corner then finish direct.

  • 55 - Conian

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    Climb Dusky to a ledge, then step left and climb the wall above.

  • 56 - Nilsar

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The crack system two metres to the left.

  • 57 - Ventnor

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres to the left and follow an indefinite crack up the steep wall to good holds on a slabby scoop, then finish direct.

  • 58 - Deception

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The steep groove and wall immediately left of the slabby scoop.