LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Crystal Wall

  • 4 - Acid Drops

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Start at the extreme left end of Crystal Wall at the edge of The Terrace directly below a saw-toothed arête. Step right around the arête, then climb it directly.

  • 5 - Acid Test

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Starting at a lower level, follow a direct line up the wall just right of the arête.

  • 6 - Madman`s Paradise

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    Start two metres to the right and climb the wall with a difficult rockover to reach the break. The crux can be reduced to 5b by moving left to a small triangular hold just before the break. From the break, continue in a direct line to finish at an obvious deep bowl.

  • 7 - That Little Bit of Rock Right of David`s Route

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the groove on the right to the break, then move left to a shallow corner and surmount the overhang directly above as for Madman`s Paradise.

  • 8 - The Six Nipples of Love

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Climb the thin flake crack on the right to the break, then pull over the overhang on good holds past a right-pointing rock finger and finish up the wall above, using a hidden hold.

  • 9 - Bog Trotter`s Bench

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Start one metre to the right and climb up to a short, thin crack, then move up and right to reach the horizontal break at another thin crack. Pull over the roof using a suspect block directly above, then step left and finish as for Six Nipples.

  • 10 - Love Under Will

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb thin cracks to the break, then finish as for the previous route.