This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Hook Buttress

  • 1 - `Go with Noakes`

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    Climb the right side of the short arête to a ledge move right to an obvious handhold then direct up the steep wall to a loose finish.

  • 2 - Arête and Slab

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    The left side of the arête to a small ledge then step left and climb the centre of a steep slab.

  • 3 - Deep End

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    A poor route. From the corner, traverse the higher breaks left to finish just right of the arête.

  • 4 - Inflexion

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1959-61/1976)
    Rating: 0

    The wall is split by a clean diagonal fault line, follow this left to bulging cracks two metres right of the arête. Finish up these by hard moves, crux.

  • 5 - Watership Down

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Mantel on to the traverse line of Inflexion and boldly climb the thin wall above to the bad break of Deep End, finish up that route.

  • 6 - Inflexion Direct

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (Pre-1975/1982)
    Rating: 1

    The steep hanging cracks left of the hook join Inflexion after six metres.

  • 7 - Ha`penny Arête

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1961
    Rating: 3

    The superb and obvious arête left of the iron loop is not for the faint-hearted. Bold climbing and a positive attitude will enable only the most confident of ascensionists to make the crux at the top look its grade. The square-cut arête left of the iron loop. Superb climbing, with the crux at the top.

  • 8 - Scoop and Traverse

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 2

    Start in a short corner groove three metres left of Ha`penny Arête, climb this awkwardly on to a ramp and go up to a horizontal break. Traverse right below the overhangs to finish on the arête.

  • 9 - Evening Visit

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Thin initial moves up the narrow slab left of Scoop and Traverse lead to the overhangs; go over these to finish.