LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Central Area

  • 10 - Crack Variation

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1959-61)
    Rating: 0

    The wall to the right of The Crack.

  • 11 - The Crack

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1959-61)
    Rating: 1

    The flake crack offers enjoyable climbing up rock which is becoming rapidly more suspect!

  • 12 - Central Arête

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1959-61)
    Rating: 1

    Climb the large, central arête starting on its left-hand side.

  • 13 - Slab Dab

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1961/1968)
    Rating: 3

    The classic route of the Vale. Enjoyable peg pocket climbing up the wall left of the arête with good runners leads to an awkward move at the overlap. Better holds continue to finish up the wall above on good holds.

  • 14 - Victim of Changes

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (Pre-1975/1982)
    Rating: 1

    Start just right of Renegade Corner and climb using old bolt holes up the steep wall to the overlap (peg). Surmount the overlap and continue up the slab above.

  • 15 - Renegade Corner

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1961
    Rating: 2

    The stunning, deep central corner of the crag provide the visitor with some excellent laybacking and bridging moves past a small overhang to gain access to a fine upper groove.

  • 16 - Zanadu

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    The right-slanting fault in the green wall left of Renegade Corner is climbed, to its end, then go direct up the wall. three pegs (not in-situ)

  • 17 - Leftless

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1961/1979)
    Rating: 0

    The peg-scarred crack just right of the cave.

  • 18 - Mein Kampf

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1966/1982)
    Rating: 3

    The route of Deeply Vale. The roof proves strenuous until the holds above are reached, but then there is still a sting in the tail. Start in the back corner of the cave and climb to a bolt. Stretch out and gain the lip of the first roof, bolt. Attain a standing position on the protruding block on the right, (Friend in break on right) and balance up to a peg. Pull up and left then continue left to finish up the arête.

  • 19 - Night Out

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 1

    Start just right of Nod`s Nightmare and climb pockets boldly up and right to gain the exposed upper arête of Mein Kampf. Finish up this.

  • 20 - Nod`s Nightmare

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1965
    Rating: 0

    The corner on the left side of the main overhang.

  • 21 - Back Seat Rock `n` Roll

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb up and leftwards from the start of Nod`s Nightmare to join and finish up Crystal Climb.

  • 22 - Crystal Climb

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1959-61)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the fault in the wall three metres to the left of Nod`s Nightmare.

  • 23 - Second Wall Climb

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1980
    Rating: 0

    A direct line up the wall left of Crystal Climb, finishing leftwards to the arête.