LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Pylon Buttress

  • 6 - Clueless Groove

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    The obvious corner system at the left of the face.

  • 7 - First Circle

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 1

    Start three metres to the right of Clueless Groove. Gain a little slab at the bolt holes and follow a thin crack to the break. The flake/block and thin crack lead to the top.

  • 8 - Jaggernath

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 1

    Follow the thin crackline on the right with increasing difficulty until a finger-slot is gained. Pull into the horizontal break of The Chud and continue more or less direct. Protectable provided that you are able to see the placements and are strong enough to place the pro.

  • 9 - Groundbait

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 1

    Follow the slanting line up right (peg). Go up to the break and continue up the headwall just left of the obvious yellow scar.

  • 10 - Sunny Day

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Start just left of grassy cracks. Gain a ledge at three metres then continue to the break and on, passing a ledge to gain the top.

  • 11 - The Chud

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 2

    A traverse of the obvious break from right to left. Climb a little corner right of Sunny Day and traverse left into Clueless Groove, finishing up (or down) that route. Bold and exciting!