Climbing guides found for: Rochdale
Blackstone Edge is a natural grit outcrop lying along the north–south ridge of the same name, about three kilometres east of Littleborough. Known locally as `Robin Hood`s Bed`, it faces north-west and offers fine views over Littleborough, Hollingworth Lake, Chelburn Moor and the moors and hills to the west. The rock is a dark-coloured, compact gritstone, providing climbs of all grades up to E4. There are relatively few climbs, but most are well worth doing and the crag is an interesting and rewarding venue.
Some climbing was recorded on Blackstone Edge as far back as 1827, this date being carved in the upper walls of South Chimney, though whether the ascent was completed is not known!
Castle Quarry (or Lobb Mill Delf) stands above the Rochdale canal some two kilometres east of Todmorden. It is very steep and impressive with overhangs everywhere. The routes weave their way through this steep country, rather than attacking it frontally. The rock is surprisingly sound considering the appearance and atmosphere of the crag.
The Prow was the first route put up on this impressive (and oppressive) cliff, in 1966, and was pioneered by Bob Whittaker and Ian Butterworth. Whittaker returned in 1968 with Allan Austin and Mike Bebbington and Austin led both Viking and Warrior. Crossbow was added by Whittaker in 1969
Cow`s Mouth Quarry is set beside a gravelled section of the Pennine Way, overlooking the valley about four kilometres north-east of Littleborough. The crag is sheltered and faces west, so it catches the sun. It is mainly composed of solid gritstone. Its slabs, walls, cracks and overhangs give the cliff a fine variety of climbs.
The records of climbing at Cow`s Mouth stretch back to 1964 when members of the Solvé Club, started visiting the quarry. It appears that the first routes to fall were three easy chimneys, probably climbed by Pete Mustoe After this, Mustoe was tempted by the irresistible lines of Z Crack, which he did with John Lowthian and its neighbour, Overhanging Crack, on which he was joined by Jim Schofield. Schofield also followed him up Sandy Crack on the same day.
This quarry, which is known locally as Beanpole Delf, overlooks the Todmorden–Hebden Bridge road (A6033), about two kilometres from the centre of Todmorden and almost directly below an obvious church tower on the skyline. The climbing is limited, but nevertheless, some of the climbs are very worthwhile and it is a good place for a quiet evening.
Bob Whittaker and Ian Butterworth discovered the quarry at Christmas 1966 after they had just climbed the first route in Castle Quarry and to stake their claim, they put up a solitary route, Endless Flight. The quarry was then left until 1980, when Whittaker returned with Geoff Hamridding and added several more routes, the best of which was Broken Lance. A few weeks later Derek Wright climbed the four `shifts`. In March 1997, following successful access negotiations with the new owner, Dave Cronshaw made a long-overdue attempt to force a route on The Prow, to give Bean Stalk.
The crag overlooks the Bacup–Todmorden road (A681) about 200 metres from its junction with the A6033 Todmorden–Littleborough road. Its position is a climber`s dream – in the `garden` of the cottage to its left. The crag is about 25 metres high, of dark gritstone with an obvious roof near its top.
Graham Wood did Wood`s Route in 1966 and the following year Bob Whittaker, Carl Fletcher and Geoff Smith added Pillar Face.
Access is with the permission of the owner who lives in the cottage adjacent to the crag. This has readily been given in the past.
Hall Stones (previously incorrectly known as Lower Winsley) is a small delf situated on the edge of the moors about two kilometres north of Todmorden. The climbs are short and the crag is not very extensive, but the rock is excellent and although it is certainly not the place for the hard man, it is a very pleasant setting for a summer evening visit for climbers in the lower grades.
Most of the climbs were first recorded by Les Ainsworth, Dave Cronshaw, and John Ryden on three snatched visits during the summer of 1982, but true first ascent details are not known.
The various quarry faces that collectively constitute Lumbutts Quarry lie along Langfield Edge, which faces north-east, overlooking the village of Lumbutts, about three kilometres south-east of Todmorden.
The earliest climbers to visit Lumbutts obviously kept quiet about their discoveries, as when John Taylor and Geoff Bradshaw ascended the first recorded route, Desperado, in 1966, Bolt Route existed even then! Fourteen years after Desperado, Bob Whittaker and friends visited the crag and a wave of intense development began. Whittaker put up most of the easier routes and of the hardest, the best were probably Rojim, Bob`s Crack, The Hunter, Deliverance, Tired Digits, Cuckoo`s Nest and Rings of Saturn. Ron`s Crack was the work of Ron Blunt, whilst Harry Taylor added Flash Harry. January 4th 1981 was a particularly productive day, when, despite a snow storm, Haigh and Harry Taylor added Split Pin, Crumble Corner and Cold Digits. A few months later Dave Cronshaw, with Whittaker and Les Ainsworth, climbed The Warp and Warp Factor and in 1983 Tony Nichols soloed Nican.
There are no access problems and there is a right-of-way leading from the Shepherd`s Rest up to the edge, linking with a network of footpaths, including the Pennine Way.
Reddyshore Scout is the series of buttresses that lie on the eastern rim of the moorland plateau overlooking the river Roch and the Rochdale canal, some four kilometres north of Littleborough. This collection of steep buttresses is in an imposing and exposed position, further enhanced by the angle of the slope beneath. The sense of exposure that this situation engenders gives it that big crag feel and ensures that seconds must belay to the rock. The excellent routes are usually on sound rock, and where there is loose rock it is noted in the text, and does not interfere, usually, with the quality of the climbing. However, all visitors must be aware that rockfalls do occur.
The first routes date from 1959, when Rochdale guru Bob Whittaker with Bill Hardacre put up Layback Corner. They also added Tattersall`s Lament in 1961 and added a brace of routes the following year; including the excellent Blind Panic. Les Ainsworth, Ian Cowell, Paul Hamer and John McGonagle `discovered` the crag in 1967 and climbed about ten routes, but sadly their records were subsequently lost. The initial exploration period ended when Jud O`Neill demonstrated that Galileo was wrong, by pulling off a large block whilst attempting a new route; the block fell and so did Jud, though somehow he contrived to reach the ground after the block! Jud`s injuries were severe and the crag immediately gained a reputation for loose rock and nothing more was added until 1975 when Whittaker once again took an interest in the crag. With his two long-time partners Gordon Mason and Ralph Pickering, he climbed Bitter Friends, Beautiful Dreamer, Chasing Dreams and Hidden Gem, which were all fine routes and which brought the crag back towards maturity.
The quarry is set on the moor above and east of the A6033 Littleborough–Todmorden road at the village of Summit. The quarry is generally sound, but there is some loose rock. The text mentions this where necessary. There are cracks, slabs and walls here and there is a fine variety of climbs to be enjoyed. The crag does dry slowly, so a day or so of dryish weather is needed to ensure that most of the climbs are dry.
The quarry appears to have been discovered by Ian Butterworth, when taking a direct route down to the valley from the nearby Cow`s Mouth. Butterworth then staked his claim by soloing Starters and Order. Shortly afterwards he returned with Pete Mustoe and added Double Mantel. Other members of the Solvé Club soon followed, and Butterworth started their visit with a mass ascent of Split Leg Corner, followed by Way Out and Buttertoe Wall. Butterworth then added Wall Climb whilst Paul Horan then started to explore the deep alcove at the left side of the crag, where he climbed the prominent Layback Crack and the equally tempting crack of The Crab, both with Stu Halliwell. Halliwell then led an obvious variation, which he named Creepy Crab. Many of these climbs were also repeated and the busy day was eventually completed by Carl Fletcher`s ascent of Delicatessen. At about that time some newly-chipped holds were discovered on a steep slab, and from then on an ascent of this short line attracted most of the Solvé members at one time or another. Eventually, the problem was solved by Horan on a cold October day to give Who Dun It?
Access is not currently a problem as there is a public footpath up to and alongside the quarry. However, the farmer whose land the quarry lies on is anxious that all litter should be removed.
This pleasant little quarry is situated east of the A6033 some four kilometres from Littleborough. It is clearly visible from the Littleborough–Todmorden road, on the hillside almost opposite the Bird I` Th` Hand pub.
When Bruce Goodwin and Tony Nichols `discovered` the crag at the end of June, 1983 a line of rusting bolts (almost mandatory in Western Pennine quarries) on the lower wall and peg remains in what is now Laughing Crack confirmed that they had been beaten there by unknown climbers. Undeterred, they climbed eight routes during the next two days, the best of which were Grinning Arête and Last Laugh by Nichols, and Sickly Smile and Laughing Crack by Goodwin. The girdle, Laugh a Minute, was also done at this time. In 1984 Nichols returned with John Lord and they turned their attention to the Lower Wall, where Lord put up his first new routes with Lord`s and Old Trafford, whilst Maiden Over and Trent Bridge fell to Nichols.
The access situation is not clear, but climbers do not appear to have encountered problems in the past.