LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Cemetery Wall

  • 20 - The Coffin

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Follow a rightward-curving groove just right of the arête to a big ledge on the left (on Starters). The thin crack in the left wall provides the finish.

  • 21 - The Shroud

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1971
    Rating: 2

    A good mantelshelf is reached directly or from lower on the right. Go up delicately to a ledge and a little groove. The steep wall is the scene of a fingery climax. An exciting and sustained route.

  • 22 - The Shroud: Turin Finish

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 2

    From the little groove go left to the arête, pull up and finish on its left side. An RP gives some illusory comfort, but it is still a bold and committing route.

  • 23 - Grave`s End

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 3

    A bold route that sees the `dithers` develop in many a nervous climber. A groove slants right; climb up to it and move left to footholds. Step up delicately into the scoop and follow this to a finish up the wall, or step right to finish up Order.

  • 23a - Direct Start

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    From a flake on the left, gain a ledge, then go direct to the runner slot on the parent route. From the slot it is also possible to move left and continue up The Shroud.

  • 24 - Laying By

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 2

    An excellent companion route to The Shroud and Graves End. Start as for Grave`s End. Continue up the groove (hard) to gain a standing position (small nut in slot on the right). Make some exacting moves to gain the blunt arête above, then a jug, a mantel and a finish `made to order`.

  • 25 - Satin Trim

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 1

    Climb Order to a ledge level with the top of the groove of Laying By and traverse left past an RP slot to gain the top of the groove. Either, continue at the same level until it is possible to step down to the slot runner on Grave`s End/Shroud and finish up The Shroud, or (bolder) go diagonally left from the top of the groove to join Grave`s End and continue left to a finish up The Shroud.

  • 26 - Order

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 1

    Follow the groove to ledges, and a shallow corner which leads to the top wall.

  • 27 - Free Spirit

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    From the groove of Order, climb the wall on the right to a ledge (on Disorder). The thin crack above leads via reachy moves to a finish just right of the overhangs. A side runner in Disorder is necessary for this grade, otherwise it deserves E2.

  • 28 - Disorder

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 2

    Sustained and testing at the grade. The next groove on the right leads diagonally leftwards to neatly rectify itself and become Order.

  • 29 - Cnig`s Direct

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Climb the groove to the flake and pull over this direct, follow ledges to finish.

  • 30 - Cnig`s Underhang

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Climb to the flake as for Cnig`s Direct but follow this rightwards to ledges. A crack on the right leads to the top.

  • 31 - Alexander the Great

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1969
    Rating: 1

    Gain the left end of the sloping ledge and follow the indefinite crackline above, which leads delicately to the overlap. Pass this to join Cnig`s Direct.

  • 32 - Brightspark

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    A groove above the right-hand end of the sloping ledge leads to the notch in the overhang; climb through this to finish up the crack on the right.

  • 33 - Laser Beam

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Start as for Bright Spark, but follow a line left of the arête, past a mantelshelf to an excellent finish.

  • 34 - Delicatessen

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Go up to the left end of the large ledge, then finish leftwards or up the corner above.

  • 35 - Take Away

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Gain the ledge at its centre then the deep corner on the right leads to a finish rightwards.

  • 36 - Pickwick

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Climb up to the right-hand end of the ledge and take the shallow corner on the right.

  • 37 - Swordfish

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Start right of Pickwick, at an overhanging corner. Climb up and left to the arête. Gain a ledge above then follow the right-hand side of the sharp arête above to finish.

  • 38 - Squid

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Follow Swordfish to the ledge then finish up a square-cut corner on the right.

  • 39 - Sunstroke

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1969
    Rating: 0

    Climb up left of the arête, unprotected.

  • 40 - Sunshine

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Start at the bottom left of the slab and follow the arête to the top.

  • 41 - Who Dun It?

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 1

    The chiselled holds on the slab lead to a very hard move (or a leap sideways to safety) and then the top. Use of the left arête makes the `tick` easier; No protection is available whichever route one chooses.

  • 42 - Derek Did It

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    Start just left of the twin cracks and climb up to a groove. Finish up this.

  • 43 - Knuclist

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    The undercut groove on the right, with two cracks.

  • 44 - Hangman

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1975
    Rating: 0

    The square-cut groove in the arête to the right. Climb easily up this, then make a committing layback up the edge of the groove to a good hold. Finish more easily.

  • 45 - The Noose

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    From the large ledge on the right, reach a hole in the left wall and finish direct over the blocky overhangs above.

  • 46 - Gardener`s Nightmare

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1969-70)
    Rating: -1

    Gain the large ledge and follow cracks in a green and earthy manner. Eminently forgettable!

  • 47 - Th`way

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Climb the pillar to the horizontal break, follow the wall above slightly left to the top.