LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Fence Buttress

  • 3 - Intro Wall

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Climb the groove, step left then finish up the crack to the left of the arête.

  • 4 - Sidestep

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    As for Intro Wall but step right and finish up the arête.

  • 5 - Night Time

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Start just to the right. Go over an overhang and finish up a corner.

  • 6 - Test Piece

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1978/1983)
    Rating: 2

    A popular, very safe way of warming up for the harder problems. Climb the scoop and gain the horizontal break. Go left to the cracked arête and follow this to an easier finish.

  • 7 - Piece Green

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    The initial difficult scoop of Test Piece leads to a finish up Green Slabs.

  • 8 - Green Slabs

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 0

    Climb the corner on the right, step right then back left on to a slab. From the overhung corner above, swing right to another slab and finish direct.

  • 9 - Tailor Made

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    A V-shaped groove two metres to the right leads to a ledge. A traverse left below an overhang leads to another grassy ledge and the slab above leads to the top.

  • 10 - War Dance

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1979/1986)
    Rating: 0

    The arête on the right contains a groove with a small roof three metres below the top of the crag. Climb to the groove and continue to the roof. Use one nut for aid to pass this and finish direct.

  • 11 - Diagonal

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Climb the groove to the grassy ledge. Semi hand-traverse left and follow the fault to finish up a slab.

  • 12 - Green Piece

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Gain and climb the chimney.

  • 13 - Midnight Express

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    Climb the left wall of the chimney for eight metres (possible belay). Hand-traverse left to a small square-cut groove on the arête and go up this to the top.

  • 14 - Dropover

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Climb cracks on the left to gain the grass ledge. The crack in the left wall leads to a loose finish.

  • 15 - Travellin` Man

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Climb the face just right of Dropover to the ledge, then follow the right-slanting crack above.

  • 16 - Central Crack

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    Follow the block-filled crack, step left and follow the crack above to finish up a little corner.

  • 17 - Worthy Venture

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Climb the ramp on the right until a swing left leads to a V-shaped groove, up which a finish can be made.

  • 18 - Wedding Day

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    The ramp, wall and overhanging crack lead to a ledge (possible belay). The centre of the slab on the right provides a finish.

  • 19 - Go For Broke

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    The short groove to the right of Wedding Day is gained direct.

  • 20 - Layback Corner

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1959
    Rating: 0

    The corner leads to an exit on to easy ledges.

  • 21 - Tattersall`s Lament

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1959
    Rating: 1

    Follow Layback Corner then gain the crack in the right wall and continue direct.

  • 22 - Blind Panic

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 1

    Climb the arête, then proceed as coolly as possible to the top. No protection on the first section of this good climb.

  • 23 - Bitter Friends

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 2

    The shallow groove and cracks a couple of metres right of the arête. A good line with tricky moves.

  • 24 - Beautiful Dreamer

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    The overhanging crack three metres to the right, then the thin crack above.

  • 25 - Chasing Dreams

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    Go left under the roof to the crack. Climb to the break and follow the thin crack above.

  • 26 - Hidden Gem

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    The deep corner on the right leads to the top of a flake. Go up the crack above to a large ledge and step left to a slabby finish.

  • 27 - Peeler

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Follow the groove farther right.

  • 28 - Happy Wanderer

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    From the break on Chasing Dreams, traverse left to finish up Bitter Friends.

  • 29 - Wild Goose

    Grade: 5a,5a,5a | First Ascent: -1980
    Rating: 1

    A girdle traverse of Fence Buttress giving some good climbing.

  • 29.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Follow Happy Wanderer, but continue the traverse to belay on the ledge of Travellin` Man.

  • 29.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Gain the arête then hand-traverse left below the overhang and continue to a belay on the pinnacle of Dropover.

  • 29.3 - Pitch 3

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    A fault leads across the steep wall to finish up the top slab of Green Slabs.