LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The Pillar

  • 26 - Nican

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    Gain a grass ledge then step left and climb a slab, finishing rightwards; serious.

  • 27 - Desperado

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1966
    Rating: 0

    The shallow corner just right of the pillar proper gives unprotected climbing to a ledge (loose block and poor protection on arrival). Follow a left-slanting weakness to a large in-situ peg below the Direct Finish to The Hunter. Either climb this to finish, or skulk off left.

  • 28 - The Hunter

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 1

    From Desperado, follow a ramp leftwards to a flaky crack. Go left and up to a corner which leads to the terrace.

  • 28a - Direct Finish

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating:

    The wall above the huge in-situ peg gives a steep and airy finish.

  • 29 - The Killer

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Start to the left of the arête. Go right over an overlap to join The Hunter at the flaky crack. Climb this then traverse right and ascend slightly leftwards to a large ledge and the huge in-situ peg. Finish as for the above route or traverse right for three metres and pass a bulge rightwards to an easing finish (4c).

  • 30 - True Grit

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Follow a bore-hole to a ledge and continue steeply to the grass terrace. A corner above can provide a finish, if desired.

  • 31 - Digital Abuse

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall, more or less direct, just left of the cracks; fingery!

  • 32 - Deliverance

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Gain the niche three metres above the ground with difficulty, then continue up the crack above.

  • 33 - Cuckoo`s Nest

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    From the chimney go up and right to a crack, then the top. Hard.

  • 34 - Convoy

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Climb to a ledge and follow a ramp leftwards to the top.

  • 35 - Power Surge

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    A sustained and technical outing! Start with difficulty and gain the niche (hard) then go left and up to a second niche. Exit this and go left and finish direct. There is a belay stake to the left.

  • 36 - Bull`s Horns

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    The corner at the left end of the wall leads to a ledge, then finish through the `Bull`s Horns` above.