This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1996
Rating: 1
Climb directly over the bulge to the left of the first groove on hidden, but excellent holds. Finish to the left of the bush.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
Climb the first, deep V-shaped groove.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -2000
Rating: 0
Pull over the overhang between The Gash and Grooves Eliminate on good holds. Finish up the sharp arête.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
Start one metre to the right and climb the steep front face of the buttress, with an awkward bulge guarding the flaky upper groove.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -2000
Rating: 0
Start slightly right of Grooves Eliminate and climb bulging rock to gain that route, then move right up a slim groove that leads to the overlap. Pull over and finish direct on good holds.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
The left wall of the next groove contains a micro-groove; start slightly to its left and gain the groove using small pockets, and continue with difficulty to the jugs on Sedgewick Wall, the temptation to cheat being ever-present.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 0
Climb the second deep groove, moving left when suitable holds appear. It is also possible to climb the groove directly at the same standard, or to exit rightwards through the bulges, with only a slight increase in difficulty.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 2
An exposed route for its grade, but the rock is Warton at its very best. Start just over a metre to the right and climb the right wall until it is possible to move out rightwards between the overhangs, on to the nose. Finish straight up.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -2000
Rating: 1
Start as for Yellow Wall, but climb direct to the large overhanging nose. Pull straight onto the end of this, then finish more easily up Yellow Wall.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -2001
Rating: 1
Start as for Yellow, but instead of traversing right to the nose, climb the undercut, upper rib direct on big holds.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 1
Start below the large nose on the right wall of the groove. Climb rightwards to a good, but not obvious, hold at the base of a small scoop. Move up and go slightly right to finish. It is also possible to start more direct by climbing over the small overhang farther right (5a).
Grade: 5c/6a | First Ascent: -2001
Rating: 0
Start just right of the direct start to Yellow Edge, directly below the hanging rib. Make a difficult move to gain the overhang below the rib and pull over this onto good holds, then finish up Yellow Edge.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
Between the nose and the descent gully is a short hanging crack. Climb this to the left-hand end of an obvious ledge, then finish more easily, direct.