LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Frontal Area

  • 16 - Inverted Stairway

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    A series of overhangs immediately to the right of the gully; good finishing holds.

  • 16a - Hill Fort Blues

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -2000
    Rating: 1

    Start between Inverted Stairway and Finger of Fun. Pull ove the big overhang and climb the arête direct on small, but positive holds.

  • 17 - Finger of Fun

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    The obvious flakes on the left wall of a deep V-shaped groove. Awkward to start and to finish.

  • 18 - Judith

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 1

    Go straight up the groove and out over the surprising roof.

  • 19 - Benghazi Groove

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Start up the groove, but avoid the roof by a tricky move out right.

  • 20 - Sabre Tooth

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the shallow groove/crack which bounds the right wall of the groove.

  • 21 - Ivy Way

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    An obvious line on the left wall of the next groove.

  • 22 - Ivy League

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the back of the groove and exit rightwards.

  • 23 - Space Walk

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 2

    The name is not quite as ludicrous as it first seems! The very prominent jutting arête is climbed on its left side; there is really only one hard move, but it`s an exquisite one.

  • 24 - Space Flight

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    The arête of Space Walk on its right side.

  • 25 - Brainwasher

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    The wall round to the right, via a thin crack just left of the main one.

  • 26 - Brainchild

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1969
    Rating: 1

    An awkward bulge guards the enjoyable crack.

  • 27 - Braincell

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 1

    Climb directly over the bulge on to a vague rib and finish over the fine, juggy overhang.

  • 28 - Seventh Heaven

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Climb the next deep groove, with an awkward move right to a steep crack at the overhang: easier for the short.

  • 28a - Seven Up

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -2000
    Rating: 0

    The steep rib right of Seventh Heaven is climbed direct on surprisingly good holds.

  • 29 - Soft Man`s Saunter

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    The obvious blocky corner.

  • 30 - Whippet Wall

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    The clean, square wall just to the right, has a couple of good moves on small pockets which lead to a flake crack.

  • 31 - Lictor Left-hand

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 1

    Just beyond the rib is an undercut wall split by two cracks. This route takes the left-hand crack.

  • 32 - Lictor Right-hand

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Climb the right-hand crack.

  • 33 - Fasces

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 1

    The wall right of the cracks has more holds than are immediately apparent.

  • 34 - V Groove

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Climb the obvious twin cracks in a groove.

  • 35 - Deception

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    (Incorrectly named Description in recent guidebooks.) The next wall, set back slightly, is steep and tricky until the thin vertical crack in its centre is gained.