This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Plum Buttress

  • 16 - The Vine Line

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 1

    The fine undercut slab at the right-hand side of the buttress is gained by a desperate mantel on to the obvious polished little shelf at head-height. Or, more often and at a more reasonable grade, the first move can be avoided by using the rib on the right. The holds above are almost too good to be true!

  • 17 - Dihedral

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 0

    The undercut groove, just before the overhang becomes much more pronounced. Hard to start, but an easier finish.

  • 18 - Yosemite Rib

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 0

    Pull into the corner groove of Dihedral and step left onto the rib. Follow it direct.

  • 18a - Direct Start

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent:

  • 19 - The Plumbline

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1968/1969)
    Rating: 2

    Getting off the ground is definitely the crux, but the groove above is not without interest. Two metres to the left and directly behind a tree near the foot of the crag there is a shallow groove. Climb this to gain the horizontal break (runners on left), then continue by thin, sustained bridging.

  • 20 - The Big Plum

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 1

    Two metres to the left there is another weakness in the overhang with a steep corner above. Difficulties at the start are proportionate to the climber`s height and many people bring the route down to VS by cairn-building, or combined tactics just to leave the ground.

  • 20a - Peach Finish

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1968

    A much better finish starts at the horizontal break. Use a pocket just above the left side of the overhang, then climb the wall above using widely-spaced pockets.

  • 20b - Sugarfix

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Climb the hanging flake crack just left of the start of The Big Plum. Follow the shallow left-slanting groove more easily to a short wide crack behind the yew tree.

  • 21 - Voodoo People

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 2

    A highly gymnastic problem. Climb the roof and wall left of the Big Plum starting from the obvious slot at the back of the roof, then struggle round the lip to stand up and gain holds to the right of Lone Tree Variation. Then finish up that route.

  • 22 - Lone Tree Variation

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 1

    From the foot of Lone Tree Groove make a hard starting move up and right, then venture out right on to the wall, to find some surprising holds leading upwards. At the tree, climb the pleasant wall directly behind its left side.

  • 23 - Lone Tree Groove

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 1

    At the left-hand end of the overhang is an attractive open groove with a tree near its top. Enter the groove by a difficult move, then continue steeply on adequate holds to the tree and an easier finish behind it. Harder for the short.

  • 23a - Nullarbor

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1999
    Rating: 1

    Start immediately left of Lone Tree Groove. Pull up directly onto a small ledge at 3 metres. Continue to the bulge and finish up the hanging blunt rib. Good gear is available - without side runners!

  • 24 - Plum Buttress Girdle

    Grade: 4b,5a | First Ascent: -1969
    Rating: 1

  • 24.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent:

    Start as for Lone Tree Variation, but continue rightwards to belay on the tree of The Big Plum.

  • 24.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:

    Follow the rounded horizontal break rightwards, getting a runner in while you still can. As the break runs out completely, make a long reach up and right to a good hold on Yosemite Rib (crux). Finish up that route.