This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Modern Wall

  • 20 - Modern Times

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1975
    Rating: 1

    A bold pitch. Start six metres to the left of the corner and climb straight up the slab past a bolt on the left at 10 metres to a small ledge with a peg just above on the left. Move diagonally left to the right side of the long narrow ledge. There is a two-bolt belay towards the left side of this ledge.

  • 20a - Century Schizoid Man

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1999
    Rating: 0

    Between Modern Times and Zero Tolerance is a recess about 10 metres high. Climb this (protected by small RP’s and rock 1’s to a difficult step left to a ledge at it’s top. Move to the left end of the ledge and climb the wall passing a vegetated break and onto the right-hand end of an overlap. Climb through this and up the wall to the belay ledge of Modern Times. Abseil descent.

  • 21 - Modern Times Continuation

    Grade: 5a,4a | First Ascent: -1975
    Rating: 0

    From the belay ledge on Modern Times, two pitches continue to the top. However, there is some loose rock, particularly on the first pitch.

  • 21.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:

    Climb rightwards across the wall above to a small niche. Enter the groove above from the left, then climb to an exit on the right; iron spike and peg belay.

  • 21.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent:

    Climb the wall and groove above to a loose finish on the left; tree belay.

  • 22 - Zero Tolerance

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    A worrying start on poor rock leads to good, steep, slab climbing. Start at the centre of the Modern Wall, directly below a prominent triangular neb on the skyline. Climb a slight rib past three bolts to a shallow scoop at 10 metres, above the poor rock. Continue up the steep slab past bolts to an obvious overhang, then step round this on its right to a good finish at the bolt belay on Modern Times.

  • 23 - Celestial Cyclone

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Start 12 metres farther left at a very shallow groove on the wall just right of the foot of a rubble cone. Climb the groove (bolt) to gain the slab (bolt). Step left then go up to a bolt and peg below an overlap, then climb diagonally rightwards to the bolt belay on the ledge on Modern Times.

  • 24 - The Year of the Cat

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 0

    A loose and poorly protected route, starting in the bay, to the right of the shattered block. Traverse up and right on an obvious band of good rock. Go up the slab above to the peg and bolt on Celestial Cyclone, then climb diagonally rightwards to the bolt belay on the ledge on Modern Times.

  • 25 - Galactic Timebreaker

    Grade: 4c,5c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 1

  • 25.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:

    Climb the right-leaning flake crack five metres to the left of the shattered block to a ledge. From the left-hand end of this go up for six metres then traverse left across a slab to a ledge. Nut belays well back.

  • 25.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:

    Move back right and go up a slab, then over an overlap to a resting place under the roof. Surmount this (peg on lip) and gain a slab which is followed to an overlap (peg). Climb up under the roof then traverse right for six metres and finish up a short groove.

  • 25.2a - Left-hand Finish

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1981

    Pass the large roof on the left then go up via blocks to the top.

  • 26 - Rock Folly

    Grade: 4a,4b,4a,–,– | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0