This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 0
From the point where the second fence meets the rock, follow the left edge of a left-slanting ramp to the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1970
Rating: 0
Take a variable line up the slab left of Schizoid Man (poorly protected) to the sapling ledge near the top of the crag. Finish up the short wall at the back of the bay.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1974/1997)
Rating: 0
Start at a fluting at the lowest point on the wall. From the top of this make delicate moves up past a bolt to a small ledge. Continue over ledges to another bolt, then step left slightly and continue to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1974/1997)
Rating: 0
Start five metres farther left at the right-hand side of low ledges and climb the faint weakness that slants left to just below a small overlap at five metres. Move right, then go up to the base of a shallow depression and follow this to its top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 0
Immediately to the left of the wall is a short left-slanting slab/groove. Climb this, then swing right below a broken white wall. Continue up and right past a short corner to the left edge of a red groove. Follow this to the saplings and finish up the back of the bay.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1981/1997)
Rating: 0
Halfway up the mound a slanting weakness leads to ledges and the right-hand side of the large cave. From four metres up this, climb rightwards then up, to large ledges below the right side of a shallow depression. Climb the blocky crackline above, keeping mainly to the wall on the left.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -2001
Rating: 0
Climb the initial groove of Aborigine Wall for just over three metres, then go right up the wall past a triangular block. Traverse up and left below the broken white wall, then arrange protection (wires in diagonal crack to the left), Step left and climb the centre of the slab to a sapling belay.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 1
Follow the slanting weakness to the first ledge, then traverse horizontally right at a small overlap, to the foot of a left-leaning crackline at the left side of a shallow depression. Follow this to the top.
Grade: –,4c | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 0
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Follow the slanting weakness to ledges at the top of it, then climb the wall and finish up the top crack.
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To the right there are two obvious slablines slanting left. Follow the rightmost of these and at the top move left to belay on a ledge below a steep and relatively clean wall.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
Start at the top of the mound and climb the wall and roofs on the right.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the centre of the wall to a bulge, surmount this and finish direct (better and more solid than the original finish which went right below the bulge).
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 0
The left-leading overhanging groove/crackline that forms the right side of the cave, starting over large, but precarious-looking blocks.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
A devious excursion.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 0
Start as for Raising the Blade and climb directly to the roof, then surmount this at its widest point.
Grade: | First Ascent:
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Take the larger, left-slanting slab to a large ledge and block belays.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 0
A resurrection of the collapsed route Karlyn Went Shopping Instead, starting just left of a stepped roof, with a small groove at its lowest point. Climb this and the wall above, moving slightly left to finish.
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From the right end of the ledge step on to the wall and move awkwardly round below a large block, then go up to the sapling ledges.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1975
Rating: 1
Start below the large cave at the top of the mound. Climb the slabs to the left side of the overhang, then follow a short crack at the left side of the overhang to reach the wide horizontal break near the top. Traverse left along this for five metres until an exit upwards (careful) can be made.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating:
From the block, a bold alternative is to traverse delicately right across the black slab and go up the rib.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 2
One of the classics of the crag, offering pleasant wall climbing without having to venture too deeply into the lost world of Warton Main. Climb the steep wall directly below the left edge of the large roofs to the top of a small dome-shaped buttress. Continue directly up the wall above (bold) to gain an obvious leftward-curving crack. Follow this until a thought-provoking mantel can be made to join the traverse of Gouffle Connection, finish up this.
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Finish up the back wall of the bay.
Grade: 4b,– | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1988
Rating: 0
The cracked wall between Ask Lez and pitch 2 of Aborigine Wall. Start from a tree and climb up to a jug filled break, then move left and pull onto a steep slab below a small roof. Climb through the roof and finish up the wall above.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Start four metres to the left and climb the obvious crack to the right-hand side of the good belay ledge.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 0
Take an interesting short corner left of Boomerang, then the distressing corner left of Aborigine Wall pitch two. Not recommended!
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Continue past large flakes, then finish up an easy corner.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 0
Scramble up a short wall and rubble slope to a small tree belay below the final corner of Ask Lez. Climb the corner to below and right of the huge, jutting block. Arrange runners and then launch out left on jugs and heel-hooks to the front face of the block, A last strenuous pull gains the top.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 1
Start six metres to the left of Wart Berg. Climb the shallow corner to the left-hand side of the large ledge on Wart Berg. Continue up Wart Berg to the top flake, then follow a thin left-leading break (No. 1 rocks) to a pull on sloping holds which lead to a resting position (peg). Easier climbing leads rightwards to finish.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 2
Strenuous climbing with good protection where it matters; as the holds get smaller the gear gets better. Follow Dog Years to the ledge, then just above this, break out left on large holds to a bolt. Balance up and right (crux) past two pegs to an overlap. A delicate move rightwards gains the break of Dog Years. Continue straight up to large holds and easier ground leading right to the top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 0
Pleasant climbing up the groove in the right rib of the wall with one or two loose blocks.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1987
Rating: 2
A direct line up the white wall left of Wart Berg with some precarious and sustained climbing. The hard moves are well protected, but the easier top section is a long way above good gear and it can feel very intimidating. Climb to a shallow niche, then leave this (peg) and climb the wall above to another peg below an overlap and use an undercut jam to gain the bolt on Mighty Fly. Gain the overlap above by a puzzling move (crux) before bold climbing leads to the sloping jugs on Dog Years. Step left to a thin crack and follow this to the break (peg) then go direct up to a bolt belay. Abseil descent.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 2
Very popular, a test-piece at its grade and becoming very shiny because of this. Pull on to the rib from the left and follow it for a couple of metres, then step left on to the face and traverse into its centre, then ascend on improving holds, to the top.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
Sustained, but easily protected. Start at a right-facing flake crack four metres left of The Torture Garden. Climb a thin crack/groove to an awkward step right to a large overlap. Sustained climbing past small wires leads to another peg. A delicate move left (peg) leads to an easier finish. It is advisable to hang a rope down the top loose band of rock to use as a belay.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
A desperately `eliminate` line taking thin cracks just left of the rib then going left at the first opportunity to climb cracks just left of the parent route.
Grade: 4a,5a | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
The first pitch is loose.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -2001
Rating: 0
Bridge up the corner bounding the left side of the Coral Sea wall to a small ledge. Continue up the left side of the wall using the breaks to a flaky finish. Inevitably shares some runners (and holds!) with Coral Sea Direct towards the top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Start five metres right of the corner of Slack Alice, and climb up to a roof. Pass this on the right, then go up slabs to a small ledge and peg belay.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 0
Ten metres left at a broken rib there is a slabby wall. Start at the lowest point and trend left up the initial wall. Above this, several variations are possible.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Move up and right past a horizontal break on to a slab (peg on right). Step left and follow the slab to the top, nut belay.
Grade: 4c,4b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
A frightening route; the first loose pitch leads to an even looser second pitch.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Start at the large corner in the angle of the quarry. Climb the corner to nut belays in the cave.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:
Continue up the corner (care with the perched block!) to nut belays.