LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Main Crag

  • 4 - Stag

    Grade: 4a,4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

  • 1 - Pioneers` Cave

    Grade: 4a,- | First Ascent: -1972
    Rating: 0

    Start at the right side of the crag at a cave. Deserves a black spot after nine metres.

  • 9 - Sniffin` the Saddle Direct

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 0

    Start four metres left of the trees and climb the bulging wall past a bolt. Continue up and slightly right to a good flake on Sniffin` (bolt), then finish up the parent route.

  • 4.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    At the left side of the terrace below the Main Crag there is an obvious, short, awkward corner. Climb this to a tree, then continue over grassy ledges to a spike belay below an obvious groove.

  • 1.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the higher cave, then exit right on to a large ledge and tree belay.

  • 10 - 3-2-1

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres left of the trees below a short left-facing corner. Climb this and the corner above, then exit leftwards, crossing Sniffin` Direct, and follow a shallow groove to a bolt belay. Abseil descent.

  • 4.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Just to the right of the belay is a bulging wall which is split by two cracks. Climb this wall using the cracks to reach a slab, then continue easily to the top.

  • 1.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    The continuation gully. Now completely overgrown and best avoided.

  • 11 - Sniffin` the Saddle

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Start at the same point as 3-2-1, then pull out right at a peg, to a shallow niche, which leads to a large ledge. Step left to gain a good flake (bolt). Sharp pockets enable a good hold to be reached (bolt); then move up to a bolt belay. Abseil descent.

  • 5 - Missing Words

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 1

    Start one metre to the right, and climb direct past two ledges to two small blocks below a short, blunt arête. Go up this to the break, then ascend the overhang above on its left. Continue on pockets to the top, with an interesting move over the next overhang.

  • 2 - Countach

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 2

    Retrobolted! A very strenuous route up the hanging scoop right of Cadillac. Three metres left of the cave climb the groove and step left to the ledge. Follow the thin crack through the overhang, pull over the next bulge to gain better holds and a resting place before tackling the steep flake in the scoop above. Follow this flake rightwards, then pull out left to finish. Well-protected by bolts.

  • 12 - Fusion

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1967/1986)
    Rating: 0

    Follow Sniffin` to the large ledge, then climb the fine, thin, snaking crack above to a bolt belay. Abseil descent.

  • 6 - The V

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 1

    At its centre, the prominent overhang is split by a deep V-notch. Start below the right-hand side of the overhang and climb up the left side of a large block to the overhang, then move left for about three metres to a smaller block directly below the notch. Climb into the notch on good holds to reach a slab, then finish up the wide crack above.

  • 3 - Cadillac

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 2

    Retrobolted! Sustained and technical climbing, with well spaced bolts. Climb the crack six metres left of the cave to the top of a pedestal. Continue up a shallow scoop (bolt) to a smaller ledge on the left, then move up and right to a bulge (bolt). Move right on a steep wall below an overhang to reach a fine hanging groove (bolt) which leads to the top.

  • 13 - Girdle Traverse

    Grade: 5b,5a,– | First Ascent: (1968/1979-83)
    Rating: 0

  • 7 - W

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 1

    One metre farther right is another, smaller, notch in the overhang. Climb to below this, either via the block on the right, or up the short pocketed wall immediately below. From the smaller block on The V, use a hidden hold in a pocket on the left (this can be difficult to find, but it is good) to make a spectacular pull up into the shallow groove above. Continue up this, then finish on good holds. The move over the roof is interesting and is not as hard as it appears, nevertheless a long reach is extremely helpful.

  • 4 - Integrali

    Grade: F7a | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    Six metres left. Climb easily up the short corner to the horizontal break (thread). Surmount the bulge immediately above (bolt) to enter a right-leaning, yellow groove, which leads past three bolts to the top. [E5 6b]

  • 13.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    As Sniffin` to the large ledge.

  • 8 - Direct Route

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the left-hand side of the large block to the overhang, as for The V. Step right on to the block itself, then pull on to the slab at the left-hand groove and follow this to the top.

  • 5 - Mustang

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 1

    Retrobolted! Climb the wall just to the left of the short pedestal to the horizontal break (thread). Climb up to a bolt, then left to a small tree. Follow ledges rightwards to a line of bolts up the steep top wall.

  • 13.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Traverse right crossing the Main Wall to a deep recess containing a fierce thorn bush. Fight past this to belay on the loose pinnacle.

  • 9 - Jess

    Grade: –,4a | First Ascent: -1988
    Rating: 0

    A rising traverse directly below the prominent overhang which splits the Main Wall. Should get easier with traffic.

  • 6 - Firebird

    Grade: F7a+ | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    Start four metres to the left and about three metres right of a tree on the horizontal break. Climb to a bolt at the horizontal break, then enter the short, pink groove directly above and continue up the steep wall above past more bolts. [E4 6a]

  • 13.3 - Pitch 3

    Grade: | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Move right and climb loose rock to the top.

  • 9.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb Chimney Route for five metres then traverse left immediately below the overhang and continue to the block below the roof of The V. Swing round this block, then continue to a blunt arête and cross a grassy bay to reach the spike belay on Stag.

  • 7 - The Green Route

    Grade: F7a+ | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    Start about one metre to the left and climb the short wall to the horizontal break, then continue up the left-leading line of bolts above. [E4 6a]

  • 13.3a - The Fertility Variation

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
    Rating:

    Climb the steep wall above the belay with two pegs for aid and loose rock to safe ground above.

  • 9.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the obvious groove passing an awkward bulge at half-height.

  • 8 - Pathfinder

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1974/1985)
    Rating: 1

    Retrobolted! Start directly below a prominent, hanging groove high on the crag and climb a short wall to the horizontal break. Cross the gnarly wall (three bolts) to gain the groove; follow this to its top before finishing out right.

  • 14 - Triggerfinger

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 3

    Probably the best route at the crag, but hard for its grade. Necky at the top, where a long reach helps. Start at a shallow scoop behind the ash tree which grows nearest the crag. From the scoop, swing round right to gain a small ledge with a stalactite above (twin bolts), move up and left over a bulge (peg) and gain the ledge above by a tricky move. Climb up to a peg, then take the upper wall direct to the bolt belay. Abseil descent.

  • 10 - High-level Girdle

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1987
    Rating: 0

    Follow Chimney Route on to the slab then continue horizontally left until a rising line of small holds can be followed to reach Missing Words. Step down a little and continue past Stag to the groove on its left. Step across this, then climb diagonally left for a few metres to finish.

  • 9 - Proton

    Grade: F6a | First Ascent: (Pre-1995)
    Rating: 0

    Farther left the bottom section to the horizontal break becomes short and vegetated. The next route starts two metres right of an ash tree on the break. From an obvious thread and unnecessary bolt belay, climb the bulging wall (bolts) to gain grooves above. [E1 5b]

  • 15 - Shot by Both Sides

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    A powerful route that takes the bulge at its steepest. Start immediately right of the ash tree and climb past a bolt to the first ledge on Triggerfinger, then continue to the bulge (twin bolts). Pull over the bulge and continue directly to a peg below the overlap. Grab the flake in the middle of the upper wall and make a fingery move left for the last obvious pocket on Triggerfinger, just below the bolt belay.

  • 11 - Chimney Route

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    Climb up to a cave below a deep, wide crack, then step left on to the slab and go back right to the crack. Continue for a couple of metres, then either finish up the chimney, or more pleasantly up the slab on the left.

  • 10 - Enter the Neutron

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall just left of the ash tree until overhanging rock bars the way. Traverse diagonally up and right to a good runner, go down and round the bulge then continue traversing to the foot of the groove. Climb this groove, exiting right at the top then climb the wall above bearing left to a small holly.

  • 16 - The Firing Squad

    Grade: F7a+ | First Ascent: (1984/1989)
    Rating: 2

    A hard start and a bold finish, with some interesting moves between. Start three metres to the right of the ash tree at a slightly lower level and climb the steep wall past two bolts to a small resting ledge. Continue to a pair of bolts, then make a long reach to gain a ledge and a jug. Easier climbing above leads to a shallow crack; pump up this to the top, bolt belay. Abseil descent. [E5 6b]

  • 12 - Wild Winds

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Climbs the sharp arête right of the chimney. Follow Chimney Route to just below the chockstone above the cave, step right, then climb the arête on its right side. Easier than it might appear.

  • 17 - Hammerlock

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1968/1988)
    Rating: -1

    The loose left-trending grooveline that starts about three metres up Virility is probably best left well alone.

  • 13 - Moose

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 2

    An excellent route, with a bold top half, which may intimidate some leaders. One of the classics at its grade. Climb the block which forms the right side of the cave on Chimney Route, to the overlap, then make an awkward step right on to the nose and finish up the steep wall.

  • 18 - Virility

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1966
    Rating: 1

    Start five metres right of the ash trees at an obvious right-slanting gangway. Follow this to its end at a shallow niche. Step up (bolt) and go right round the arête, then boldly climb the loose wall above to a bolt belay out on the right (as for Humphrey Hymen). Abseil descent.

  • 14 - Cracked Wall

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    The aptly-named wall on the right. Climb to a recess just below the nose of Moose, then step up and move right up the wall and shallow groove. It can be made slightly easier by climbing the wall farther right.

  • 19 - Live Rounds

    Grade: F7b | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 1

    From immediately left of where the path meets the Main Crag, climb to a bolt in the bulging wall. Continue in a direct line passing a peg in the first break and two bolts. Abseil descent. [E4 6a]

  • 15 - Easy Chimney

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres to the left of the obvious rowan tree which grows from a split block at the right side of the crag. Climb the left wall of the obvious groove, then climb the obvious groove/chimney.

  • 20 - Shooting the Load

    Grade: F7a | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres right of the point where the path meets the crag. Climb directly to the shallow niche at the end of the gangway on Virility then continue up and left past bolts to the belay on Live Rounds. [E5 6a]

  • 16 - Ridge

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the ridge directly behind the rowan tree to a ledge with a small tree on it. Step right and go up, then regain the ridge and follow it to the top.

  • 21 - Humphrey Hymen (Met a Sly Man)

    Grade: F7b+ | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 3

    Excellent fingery climbing up the steep, grey wall. Start one metre to the right and climb the bulging rib (Rock 3 below first bolt) to a pair of bolts. Continue up the steep wall above, past two more pairs of bolts, to a bolt belay. Abseil descent. [E5 6b]

  • 22 - Stymen

    Grade: F6b | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 1

    Start one metre left of the sentry-box on Noda and climb the wall past two bolts to gain a scoop. Continue up the wall above passing two more bolts to a bolt belay. Abseil descent. [E3 5c]

  • 23 - Noda

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    A loose and rather serious climb. Start below a sentry-box in the right end of the wall. Climb to the sentry-box, move left using a hollow flake, then go up and right into a short groove. Follow the crack above to a loose finish by a small bush. Finish up loose rock.

  • 23a - Variation Start

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1967-68)
    Rating:

    Climb Humphrey Hymen to a right-leading ramp, then follow this to the short groove.

  • 24 - Pork Pie

    Grade: F6a+ | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 1

    From the sentry-box on Noda, move up and right, then climb the wall directly past three bolts to a two bolt belay. Abseil descent. [E2 5c]

  • 25 - Humphrey Bogart

    Grade: F7b | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 0

    Start four metres to the right and surmount the initial overhang (thread immediately above), then continue up the scooped wall above via three bolts. Bolt belay. Abseil descent. [E4 6b]

  • 26 - Sunflake

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1968-75)
    Rating: 0

    Start behind the large ash tree at the right end of the buttress and climb the wall to the obvious wide flake. Finish up this.