This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1991
Rating: 2
Not as monumental as its namesake in Wyoming perhaps, but likewise well worth the walk in. It is the prominent, capped groove six metres right of the Fallen Block, which bounds the Main Overhang on its left. Ascend the bulging lower wall to gain the groove, then pull out left round the roof.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 2
A surprisingly impressive route for such a small crag. It combines the best of Pingora with an airy but amenable amble into spectacular territory. Follow Pingora to the roof, then traverse right above the overhangs on excellent rock until it is possible to finish on the prow above the widest part of the big roof.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 2
A good, but improbable line where blind moves lead to good but sharp holds but the difficulties are soon overcome. Start three metres left of Spike, directly below another flake which splits the top wall. Climb to a peg in the roof, then use a good hold on the lip to gain an even better one and finish up the groove on the left.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1991
Rating: 0
About a quarter of the way along the Main Overhang, the roof is split by a prominent flake. Climb this.
Grade: F8a/F8b | First Ascent: -2000
Rating: 0
The line of bolts over the main overhang with the crux sequence turning the lip to gain a good hold on the top wall.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1991
Rating: 1
Four metres right of Spike is a short corner below the big roof. Climb the corner to an awkward stance on a ledge on the left. Climb strenuously over the roof to gain better holds above. Finish up the big crack on the right.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
The Main Overhang ends at a hanging groove and immediately right of this is another groove capped by a small overhang. Climb this direct.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
Two metres to the right is an open, slabby groove. Gain this and either finish direct or move right and finish up the next groove.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
On the right is a jutting prow. Climb the hanging corner right of this and finish up the prow.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
Start two metres to the right at the right side of a bulge. Ascend to a good flake hold with difficulty then finish direct.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
Start immediately left of a low cave at ground level. Climb to the bulge, then move right and finish just to the left of the blunt rib.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
From the right-hand edge of the low cave, climb up to a flake crack on the right of the rib. Move left (hard) and finish on good holds.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
The broken groove on the right gives a poor route.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
Right again is another groove (shattered) with a crack to its right. Climb dubious rock to reach and follow the crack. Move right below the tree to finish.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 1
Five metres to the right is a birch tree. Climb up and left to finish up the square-cut groove on the right of the roof.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 0
Climb the hanging groove immediately right of the birch tree. Originally this route followed a large flake, but this fell off on the second ascent on the same day.