LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Forgotten Walls

  • 36 - Wolfman

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    From the trees at a higher level, climb a short groove and poor rock to a small overhang. Climb this via the obvious crack and continue until thin right-leading flake holds can be used to gain a good flake above. Pull up on this and make a long step right (bolt) to a small, high footledge and a peg and bolt belay. An abseil descent is recommended to avoid the poor top.

  • 37 - Adela

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 2

    This airy route makes the best use of the rock left of January. Start as for Wolfman and climb the groove to a large ledge on the right, then walk along this to a small, pinnacle flake. Step left from the flake and climb past a bolt to the horizontal break. Continue up (bolt), then leftwards using sharp pockets to reach a thin diagonal crack on the left. This can also be climbed more direct from the second bolt at a similar grade. Step up to a good jug on Wolfman, then make a long step right (bolt) to a small, high footledge and a peg and bolt belay. An abseil descent is recommended to avoid the poor top.

  • 38 - January

    Grade: 4b,5a | First Ascent: (1975-79/1981)
    Rating: 2

    Well worth doing for the unique top wall on excellent, bubbly rock. Start below a deep, right-facing corner and climb this to a ledge on the left. Finish up the shallow depression in the bubbly wall above, past an in-situ thread to reach a short slab and peg. Belay just above this at two pegs in the little outcrop above.

  • 38a - September Arête

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating:

    The sharp, left arête of the corner gives a pleasant start.

  • 39 - Where Bolters Fear to Tread

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 1

    Gain the arête on the right by a flake crack on its right, then step into a groove and follow this to easier-angled rock above. Just above a prominent flake crack on the right, step left to a peg and climb boldly up the right side of the top arête, until it is possible to swing round to a good foothold on the left. Finish past a peg in a short slab and belay at two pegs as for January.

  • 40 - Oktoberfest

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 1

    10 metres right there is a large flake at ground level. From the left side of this, climb the slab and shallow groove above to a large ledge. Step left and climb up to an in-situ thread, then traverse left on sloping footholds to a peg and round the overhang. Scramble up to a two peg belay on the left.