LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Descent Gully Area

  • 3 - Roobarb`s Corner

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 0

    The area is bounded on its left by a set of three staggered corners at the point where the path along the foot of the crag drops slightly. Surmount the bulge, then continue up the second corner, or the wall on its right. At the top move left and climb the top corner by a wide crack.

  • 4 - Pocketman

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Start between the two trees on the flake. Take a direct line on good pockets to the right-hand side of a yew-covered ledge. Good sharp pockets provide the key to the bulging wall above, then finish direct.

  • 5 - Headwall Crack

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Start at the right side of the flake and take a direct line to a ledge below a short corner in the headwall. Climb this, then finish immediately left of the thin continuation crack. The route can also be started behind the second tree on the flake.

  • 6 - Earthworm

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 0

    About two metres right of the flake surmount the bulge and continue up the slab above to a ledge below the short corner of Headwall Crack. Climb this for a couple of moves, then escape left along a line of flakes.

  • 7 - Boneless Beef

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Start behind the next tree, that grows from the foot of the crag. Climb diagonally right on to the slab, then continue up the right side of the slab to a shallow scoop below a small overlap. Traverse right across the slab, just below the overlap, then at the end of the overlap, flake holds lead left to the top.

  • 8 - The Decent Thing

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 1

    The clean swathe that cuts up the vegetated slab near the top of the descent gully, gives a pleasant pitch. Finish directly, on the left, or on the right.