This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Right Wall

  • 35 - The Route of All Evil

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 2

    Retrobolted! Superb open climbing, taking the line of least resistance up the wall right of Great Gully. Start at a short, right-facing flake at the left side of the next wall. Climb the flake then continue to the top of the shallow groove in the middle of the wall. Move left and go up to a good horizontal break. Step right and go up flakes to a second break. Traverse left to a good rest (bolt) and pull up right on good holds to a flake, then finish out right to the top. There is an easier finish on the left.

  • 36 - Eraser Head

    Grade: F7b | First Ascent: (1983/1991)
    Rating: 1

    A stunning, direct line up the clean white wall; a limestone classic. Climb past the first overhang on Route of All Evil, then at 10 metres move left and continue up the wall to a tape in the second break (junction with Route of All Evil). Step up and leftwards to a good nut then make wild moves on a one-finger undercut to finish up the headwall. The top part of this route was originally called True Path. [E5 6b]

  • 37 - Cyborg

    Grade: 5c,5a | First Ascent: -1975
    Rating: 1

    Some very good climbing in the lower half. Start as for The Route of All Evil.

  • 37.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:

    Ascend the corner to the flake, then traverse right for six metres to the middle of the wall. Go straight up to a small ledge and sapling then move out right past a peg (possible lower-off), then across disposable holds and up to a yew tree.

  • 37.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:

    The rib and crack out to the left; brittle rock.

  • 38 - Mid-Air Collision

    Grade: F7b | First Ascent: (1986/1991)
    Rating: 2

    A superb route with a perplexing crux – right at the end, but well-protected by bolts. Start three metres to the right and take a direct line crossing Cyborg to meet Route of All Evil at the first break. Continue as for this route to the second break, move slightly rightwards, then climb straight up the headwall passing a bolt. The top part of this route was originally called Flight Path. [E5 6b]

  • 39 - The Omega Factor

    Grade: 6a,5c | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    First pitch retrobolted! Start eight metres right of Cyborg, below a niche containing a holly tree.

  • 39.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent:

    Climb awkwardly past bolts to the niche and, after a fight with the holly, escape left (bolt) to gain a good flake then go up to Cyborg. Move right, climb to an overlap and up the groove out right, finishing at a yew as for Cyborg.

  • 39.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:

    Move right to beneath a shallow depression in the steep wall and climb this to the top.

  • 40 - Garden of Eden

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: -1

    Jungle bashing, which starts 15 metres right, behind a clump of small trees. Climb a shallow groove past a tree to a ledge at six metres, then move across left to a crack. Bushwhack up this and struggle through bushes to a tree. Finish up fairly clean rock.