This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Great Gully Area

  • 28 - Tricky Pricky Ears

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1988
    Rating: 2

    An unusual route for the crag, being fairly bold in places. Start about three metres higher up at a shallow groove. Climb this and the wall just left of the overhang, then continue to the flaky ledge on Lunatic. Climb the wall above, trending slightly right to reach a hanging groove (Darth Vadar) and finish up this.

  • 29 - Lunatic

    Grade: 5c,5c | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 1

    The upper groove is a fine contrast to the lower wall. Start below a flake some six metres up Great Gully.

  • 29.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:

    Climb to a sapling, then go up the flake above to gain a ledge. Climb up to a big flaky ledge and tree belay.

  • 29.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:

    Gain the superb open groove on the right which leads to the top.

  • 30 - Darth Vadar

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    From the tree belay at the top of the first pitch of Lunatic, move right past the groove and continue to the hollow flake on the right, (poor bolt). Go up to a small flake, then step right across the obvious niche. Climb the wall above to the break (peg), and finish out rightwards up a loose groove. A harder variation is to gain the niche from below.

  • 31 - Maboulisme Merveilleux

    Grade: F7c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    A stunning route and a much sought after prize that takes in some improbable territory through the very steep bulge at the top of the gully to the right of Moonchild. Unfortunately the route is very slow to dry. Start nine metres up Great Gully at a small ledge and bolt belay. Traverse across the gully and attack the very steep bulge on good, but well spaced, holds to a gymnastic crux at the lip. Continue up the slab to a bolt, then finish direct. Well-protected by bolts. [E6 6c]

  • 32 - Great Gully

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: -1

    The tapering vegetated gully that leads to a yew in a cave. The best line is on the left. Abseil descent.

  • 33 - Captain`s Crack

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1972
    Rating: -1

    The broken crack up the right-hand side of the gully that leads to the cave and an abseil descent.

  • 34 - Apollo`s Exit

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1980
    Rating: -1

    The short, awkward crack through the cave roof (peg on lip). Belay well back. Currently overgrown.