LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The Quarry

  • 1 - Wall and Crack

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the short, broken wall to a grassy ledge and finish up the crack on the right.

  • 1 - Keffer

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    Climb the thin crack one metre left of Shaz.

  • 2 - Firefrost

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    On the right is another right-slanting line of weakness with a slabby upper section. Climb up to the ledge and then finish up the flake crack above and to the right.

  • 2 - Shaz

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The prominent crack in the left side of the wall.

  • 3 - Watching the Detectives

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Start at a broken groove 13 metres to the right of Firefrost and continue to the ledge. Take the overhang on its left and finish up an excellent jamming crack.

  • 3 - Time Switch

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The thin crack two metres to the right.

  • 4 - Footless Oasis

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    Climb broken rock and the wide jamming crack above.

  • 4 - Grey Donkey

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall between the cracks.

  • 5 - The Flake of the Floating Light

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    Climb the flaky crack to the halfway ledge (loose), then step right and follow a right-slanting ramp and crack to the top.

  • 5 - White Horse

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The next crack has a small triangular niche at half-height. Climb this and finish over ledges.

  • 6 - Ego Trip

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    The wall one metre farther to the right.

  • 7 - Dark Horse

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    The cracks on the right are climbed directly.

  • 8 - Stallion

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Start up Dark Horse, then follow a right-curving crack to the top.

  • 9 - Roundabout

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Start as for Dark Horse, but make a rising traverse leftwards to finish up Shaz.

  • 10 - Mark

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the left edge of the slab to a grassy ledge, then finish up the crack behind.

  • 11 - Times Passed

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    Climb the centre of the slab, then finish up a deep corner.

  • 12 - The Riffler

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    The prominent crack in the steep slab around the arête is gained from the right. Follow the crack and finish over ledges.

  • 13 - Slabdab

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Start immediately right of the start of Riffler and follow the obvious weakness over ledges.

  • 14 - Kestrel Crack

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 1

    Climb the appealing, straight crack on the left until it is possible to step left to a large foothold. Finish directly.