LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

First Bay

  • 1 - Right Route

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1983-87)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the groove and crack direct. Access to the foot is overgrown.

  • 2 - Golfer`s Groove

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1983-87)
    Rating: 0

    Start to the right at a groove with an overhang at mid-height, further identified by an arrow and cross painted at its base. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

  • 3 - Josh`s Path

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 2

    On the right is a deep alcove. Ascend the left wall of the alcove to reach flakes, followed by a crack. Above the crack traverse left to avoid poor rock and ascend to the top (possible escape route right and up from the top of the crack). A very neat route.

  • 4 - Karoshi

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Climb the left-leaning, twin cracks at the back of the deep alcove, passing large blocks at the top.

  • 5 - Anit

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Immediately to the right is a crack/corner. Ascend this directly past a slightly overhanging block to a belay at the top of the groove.

  • 6 - The Printed Page

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1983-87)
    Rating: 0

    Four metres to the right there is a steep slab. Start below an overhang to the left of the slab. Move up and swing right on to the slab, then follow the left edge of the arĂȘte to finish.

  • 7 - The Open Book

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1983-87)
    Rating: 0

    The wide crack on the right is obvious and pleasant.

  • 8 - Knarrly Groove

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Two metres to the right is a shallow, slanting groove. Ascend this with difficulty to a ledge. Move up using the corner and the face to the left, to enter a deeper groove and reach a belay in the corner at the top, or scramble to a stake higher up.