LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The Aspe

  • 82 - Apse Arête Indirect

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 1

    Climb the arête left of The Apse gaining it from the left by a short traverse along an undercut ledge.

  • 83 - Apse Crack

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the crack above the right-hand edge of The Apse roof.

  • 84 - Apse Wall

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 0

    A barely independent line up the wall just right of Apse Crack.

  • 85 - Eel

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 0

    Opposite The Apse is a smaller cave with a block at its entrance. From the block, hand-traverse rightwards on improving holds and finish up the wall.

  • 86 - S.H.M.

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 1

    Round to the right is a scooped arête. Move right on to this, then go leftwards until a good hold enables a swing right to be made and so gain a ledge. Finish direct.

  • 87 - Has Been

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 0

    Go up the wall two metres right of the arête to a ledge, then climb a short groove and finish up a crack.

  • 88 - Ladder Ridge

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 0

    Four metres to the right, climb a series of step-like ledges and the scoop above.

  • 89 - Deceit

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the chimney on the right, passing outside a large chockstone. Avoid walking off by traversing across the hanging wall, then finish up the arête.

  • 90 - Flack

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1965-74)
    Rating: 1

    Start just right of Deceit and climb directly up the left-hand side of an arête, with a hard move to reach a conveniently-placed chipped hold.

  • 91 - Scoop Wall

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 2

    A really good problem, demanding faith in friction at the start. On the right-hand side of the arête, climb the wall via an obvious scoop which is hard to enter.

  • 92 - Cloister Wall

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 0

    A three-metre-high block leads to a platform. Climb the short arête to The Cloister (an unusual hole with a pillar inside), which is passed with difficulty via the overhang on the left or, better, the bulging wall on the right.

  • 93 - Suspension

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the severely undercut crack which contains two chockstones and has a gymnastic start.

  • 94 - Cracked Ridge

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the arête which bounds the wall on the right, then gain the slight scoop on the right with difficulty and follow it to the top.