LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Leprosy Wall

  • 29 - Tut

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1960
    Rating: 0

    Start up the chimney, then follow a short crack to gain a cave on the right. Step up left under the overhang, then stride back right above the cave to a good foothold. Finish up the arête – exposed.

  • 30 - Krilt

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1966
    Rating: 0

    Climb the left side of the sandy, ground-level cave to reach a layback flake. Follow this and finish directly up the wall just left of a short groove.

  • 31 - Aquarius

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1970
    Rating: 0

    From the right-hand side of the sandy cave pull out right to a short crack which leads to the upper cave. Move out leftwards and finish up the short groove, just right of Krilt.

  • 32 - Mega Factor

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 1

    From three metres right of the cave, climb the wall using small ledges, directly to the right-hand side of the upper cave. Step left and finish directly up the clean wall.

  • 32a - Carpe Diem

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -2002
    Rating: 2

    Climb the wall between Mega Factor and Apollo to a large hole and bulging crack. Use this, then mantel onto a ledge and traverse left for about five metres, then finish direct above the centre of the cave.

  • 33 - Apollo

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1965-74)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the cracked wall on the right, step right, then finish up a short jamming crack and a vague flake.

  • 34 - Venus

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    Start four metres to the right and climb a wide crack to gain an obvious niche with a triangular roof. Exit left via a flake, and finish up the shattered wall.

  • 35 - Space Walk

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1965-74)
    Rating: 0

    Climb Venus to the niche and leave this by a thin crack on the right. Step right and finish direct.

  • 36 - Wellington

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1966
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres to the right and climb the steep crack to below an ill-defined chimney, moving right past a `wobble-block` to finish direct.

  • 37 - Sinbad

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Two metres right of Wellington, climb directly up the crack past a small sandy cave.

  • 38 - Appendix

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1965-74)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wide crack that leads to the right side of a large cave, then leave this by the right-hand wall.

  • 39 - Sandman

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres right of Appendix and climb a short groove and crack which has a loose finish.

  • 40 - Bey Reyt Wall

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres right and climb the wall which contains a sandy hole low down.

  • 41 - Boozer`s Way

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 0

    Climb cracks left of the angle of the wall into a recess, which is in turn vacated using a crack up its left edge.

  • 42 - Fusion Chimney

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1965-74)
    Rating: 0

    This chimney that bounds Leprosy Wall on its right.