LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

First Triple Wall

  • 43 - Necronomicon

    Grade: 5c (1 pt) | First Ascent: -1980
    Rating: 3

    Very well-protected, with some exciting moves above the overlap. Climb Fusion Chimney to the first horizontal break, then move right and climb a thin, stepped crack to gain the left-hand side of the large cave. Gain the bolt in the wall above and use it for aid, then free-climb to the top.

  • 44 - Odyssey

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1969
    Rating: 0

    From a metre left of large blocks across the crevasse, make a long reach across to a peg and use this, then continue past a drill-hole (bong or wooden wedge also used for aid) to the centre of the sandy cave. Exit from the left-hand side of this, as for Necronomicon.

  • 44a - Variation

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Join the route just above the large drill hole, by traversing left from Odyssey Variant, thereby avoiding the peg start.

  • 45 - Odyssey Variant

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 1

    From the right-hand side of the large blocks, surmount the jutting nose using a convenient drill-hole to reach a large ledge. Continue up the thin crack to reach the right-hand side of the sandy cave. Finish as for Necronomicon.

  • 46 - Delilah

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1960
    Rating: 2

    An awkward start, but a good route. Start just to the right and thrash up the narrowing cleft to a ledge on the left. Gain, then climb, the cracked corner on the right, step right and finish up the centre of the wall.

  • 47 - Gold Rush

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 2

    Climb the steep wall two metres right to a small triangular ledge (peg). Stand on the ledge and finish diagonally rightwards by a series of deceptively innocent-looking ledges. Finish easily up the top arĂȘte.

  • 48 - Sampson

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1965-74)
    Rating: 1

    Start at the right-hand side of the wall by a protruding piece of iron. Move up and left to the iron and finish up a thin bulging crackline.