This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 0
Climb a curving crack at the left side of the main crag, to a large ledge. Finish up the right-hand of the two cracks above.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 0
Climb the wall just to the right, using a short, deep crack at four metres to gain a ledge. Climb the wall above via a thin crack, moving right to a stump at the top.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -2002
Rating: 2
Start up an obvious white streak between Farrak and Broomstick and continue to a ledge at half height. Finish slightly right up the obvious flat face.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 2
A classic, lower-grade limestone crack climb, but beware of the reachy last move. Four metres from the left end of the main wall is an obvious wide crack that trends slightly rightwards. Follow this to its top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1998
Rating: 0
A direct line up the pocketed, bulging wall between Broomstick and The Omen. A long reach is helpful.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 0
Climb the centre of the wall two metres to the right of Broomstick to a shallow groove. Follow this to a ledge on the right, step back left and climb the wall above directly to the top (runner in Broomstick).
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1998
Rating: 0
Follow The Omen to the ledge, then climb the right-hand side of the blunt arête on small holds to a jug at the top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
The wide crack right of Broomstick, behind a protecting leaf of rock.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
Just right is another flake; climb this, then finish as for Alice.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0
Climb the bulge immediately to the right, then continue directly up the wall above.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
Climb the wall and short flake crack on the right, then finish direct.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 0
Climb steeply to the short flake crack on Jennet, then step right and make a long reach for a good hold. Continue in a straight line to the top.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
Two metres to the right is a shallow cave at ground level. Climb the flake crack above this, then step left and finish as for Jennet.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
A direct line from the right side of the cave. Avoid the large overhang by the flake crack on its left, then finish direct. The overhang can also be taken direct at 5b.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
Follow an obvious weakness one metre right, passing the large overhang on its right.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1998
Rating: 0
Climb the groove one metre right then continue up and left to a tree belay.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 0
Climb the scoop and wall immediately left of The Shrew using holds completely independent of that route until a junction can be made with its slanting crack at approximately 6 metres. Finish up The Shrew.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 1
A good wall climb on holds that are not always obvious. Climb the blunt arête two metres to the right, then move right to a ledge directly below an overlap. Climb this by the flake crack at its right side and finish direct.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 1
Climb the thin overhanging crack two metres to the right, to a ledge on The Shrew. Move on to blocks on the right of the overhang and finish direct.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Start one metre right and use undercuts to reach round the bulge to a short crack, which can be used to reach a second crack. Step left above the bulge and move up (bolt) then step right and reach round the overhang to better holds. Surmount the overhang and finish as for Warlock Wall.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 1
The obvious deep, overhung corner crack about 25 metres right of the left end of the crag. It is best climbed facing left.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 1
Start just to the right and surmount the square-cut overhang to gain a small ledge below a second roof. Climb this via a good flake hold, and continue up the short wall above to a junction with Beelzebub.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
Starting one metre right, climb to a small ledge at five metres, beneath a small overhang. Go over this overhang and the one above to an easier finish.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
On the right is a cracked wall. Climb the left-hand crack.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
Climb the cracks one metre right and continue in a direct line through the bulge at the top.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 0
Climb the cracks of Witches` Favourite until it is possible to step right above an overhang and finish up the wall above.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1979
Rating: 0
Climb the corner just right, to below an overhang. Surmount this to gain a ledge on Witches` Brew and finish up that route.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1998
Rating: 1
Climb the blunt arête between Flying Magician and Cracklap without stepping into either route. At the overhang step right across Cracklap and surmount the overhang at its widest point. Finish boldly up the headwall, aiming for a distinctive arch-shaped hold.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 1
Three metres to the right is a system of wide cracks trending left. Climb these.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1979-81)
Rating: 0
Immediately to the right, a thin crack leads up to a bulge at two-thirds-height. Follow this with difficult moves round the bulge to reach a small ledge (peg). Continue direct.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 1
The next obvious feature is a shallow corner leading to the left side of a large overhang. Climb this corner, then layback the overhang to an easier finish.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 0
Takes a direct line through the roof between Familiar’s Fall and Satan’s Slave. Start up a bulging, undercut arête via tricky boulder problem moves to gain easier ground leading up to the roof. Arrange protection (peg on left, also possible to clip a peg to the right on Satan) and attack the overhang direct. Continue direct up the wall above (small wires) to the top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 0
Starting three metres to the right, climb up to the centre of a long ledge. Gain good holds below an overhang (peg), then make long reaches to climb the overhang and the wall above to a ledge and short finishing groove.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1998
Rating: 1
Start about one metre left of the memorial plaque. Make a difficult move round the overlap and climb directly to a ledge. Continue up the groove to a fine open finish up the crack on the left of Thrutch.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 0
Start directly above the memorial plaque and below the right side of the long ledge and climb up to it. Continue up a groove and step right to finish up an obvious clean, wide crack at the top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 0
Climb the arete to the right of Thrutch and continue directly. Cross the bulge diagonally leftwards using a hidden sidehold (runners to R on Spell), to finish just right of Thrutch.