LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Sweet Dreams Buttress

  • 46 - Witch Arête

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1975
    Rating: 0

    Just right of Central Gully is a short wall, capped by a bulge, at the left side of which is a thin crack. Climb this crack to gain the arête and after a short detour into the gully, follow this to a twin bolt belay on a large ledge at the top of the crag.

  • 46a - Alternative Start

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the first crack right of the gully.

  • 47 - The Necromancer

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Two metres to the right is a shallow scoop at three metres. Gain this directly and climb it to a ledge above. Surmount the bulge via a thin crack and a long reach to a good hold, and either finish direct, or (better) move left on to the arête and follow this to a twin-bolt belay on a ledge at the top of the crag.

  • 48 - Witch Way

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 1

    Separating the short wall and the overhanging face on the right is a slabby wall. Climb this to the right side of a slab, then traverse left in a good position to join Witch Arête and finish up this.

  • 49 - Satanic Rite

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    At the left side of the small, dome-shaped buttress is an undercut groove capped by an overhang. Climb this groove, stepping left to surmount the overhang at the top.

  • 50 - Sweet Dreams Left-Hand

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1980-81)
    Rating: 0

    Starting at the centre of the dome-shaped buttress, climb directly to the top and a difficult finish.

  • 51 - Sweet Dreams

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1972/1975-79)
    Rating: 1

    This route takes the groove at the right side of the wall, with a deep niche near its foot. Follow the groove and continue directly up bulging rock to a good hold. Move right to finish.

  • 52 - The Nameless One

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1980-81)
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres to the right and ascend the steep wall between Sweet Dreams and the edge of the buttress.

  • 53 - Any Witch Way but Lucifer

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall and arête immediately right to the slab. Continue more easily up the right-hand groove system above to an exposed finish on the right above the left side of Witchcraft Buttress.

  • 53a - Variation Finish

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    From the large niche near the top, follow a curving weakness rightwards in an exposed position to finish at the same place.

  • 54 - Crossing the Line

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Climb the slab two metres farther right and follow the left-hand groove. Either step left and continue to the higher tree, or move right to finish up Lucifer.