LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Upper Tier

  • 1 - Pelvic Thrust

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres to the left of the central crack of the first buttress. Climb up trending leftwards then finish direct.

  • 2 - Raging Horn

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 0

    From the foot of Pelvic Thrust step up and right on to the wall and climb directly up the shallow depression above. Side runners in Pelvic Thrust would reduce the grade to E3.

  • 3 - The Fireman`s Slippery Pole

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    Climb the central crack direct. A deceptive climb, which is more strenuous and sustained than it appears.

  • 4 - Kissing the Pink

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 1

    Probably the best natural gritstone arĂȘte in Lancashire. The moves are not particularly hard, but are unprotected and slightly overhanging, with a long reach to the square-cut top reserved for the moment that you least appreciate it. Couple this with a slight grittiness which tends to make for sudden foot slippage and you have a compact little adventure, be careful but enjoy. Start at a higher level and climb the right arĂȘte of the first buttress on its right side.

  • 5 - Toro Toro Aardvark

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    The small wall between the two main buttresses is split by two flake cracks. The left-hand one has not been climbed. This route follows the right-hand crack direct.

  • 6 - The Last Temptation

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 2

    The impressive leaning crack that splits the left wall of the second buttress. It would become a classic gritstone test-piece if it were on Froggatt.

  • 7 - Grimly Fiendish

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 2

    The wide overhanging crack that splits the front face of the right-hand buttress proves an unforgettable experience.

  • 8 - New Rose

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 1

    Climb the crack right of Grimly Fiendish to the capping roof, then pull left over this to gain the top.