LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Problem Wall

  • 1 - Session`s End

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Traverse rightwards from the left side of the crag to The Race.

  • 2 - Pudding

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Climb directly from the drill mark at the left of a cave. The number [4] is painted on the rock.

  • 3 - Pie

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Climb up via the right side of the cave. The number [5] is painted on the rock.

  • 4 - Gorse Bush

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall one metre to the right via a small niche. The number [6] is painted on the rock.

  • 5 - Absolute Beginners

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Climb up via a drill mark at two metres. The number [7] is painted on the rock.

  • 6 - Bramble Ramble

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Start one metre to the right and climb just left of the obvious vertical weakness. The number [8] is painted on the rock.

  • 7 - The Race

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall one metre to the right, immediately right of a vertical weakness, via a good ledge at three metres. The number [9] is painted on the rock.

  • 8 - Escalator

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Start at a drill mark three metres to the right. The number [10] is painted on the rock.

  • 9 - Snail Trail

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    The wall one metre right of the drill mark. The number [11] is painted on the rock.

  • 10 - Paul Pritchard`s Jacket

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Faint cracks one metre to the right. The number [12] is painted on the rock.

  • 11 - Stoning a Leper

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Exit leftward out of the sandy cave. The number [13] is painted on the rock.

  • 12 - Kiss the Razor`s Edge

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: (1995/1997)
    Rating: 2

    A `last great problem`, the ultra-low counter traverse to Tarot Plane. Best done out of the nettle season. From a low jug on Stoning a Leper, traverse rightwards with feet just above soil level and hands avoiding Tarot Plane, until a junction can be made with Central Icefall Direct.

  • 13 - Pay the Witch

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Exit rightwards from the centre of the sandy cave and pull quite boldly up the headwall. The number [14] is painted on the rock.

  • 14 - Late Pickings

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Climb up the right side of the cave, starting at a crack. The number [14a] is painted on the rock.

  • 15 - Rifted Victim

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Surmount the protruding blocks on their right and pull leftwards into the groove. The number [16] is painted on the rock.

  • 16 - Naked Lunch

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Start one metre to the right and climb a faint overhanging crack and the wall above. The number [17] is painted on the rock.

  • 17 - Black Jake

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Climb past a slot at two metres, then continue up the obvious weakness. The number [18] is painted on the rock.

  • 18 - Timothy`s Route

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 1

    Start one metre farther right. Unusual in that it is possible to top out in relative safety. Only 5a to touch the top. The number [19] is painted on the rock.

  • 19 - Wobblebottom

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 1

    One of the few problems at Longridge to top out. An early breakthrough that opened the floodgates. Start at the left side of the First Set Back and snatch up to the break, step left and surmount the short juggy arête above. The number [20] is painted on the rock.

  • 20 - Seven-A

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 1

    Gain the top of the First Set Back by undercutting an unfriendly horizontal slot. Feels dangerous on first acquaintance. The number [21] is painted on the rock.

  • 21 - Tarot Plane

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    The first of the excellent traverses. Traverse left from Central Icefall Direct to link up with Session`s End and so reach the end of the crag. A hard, low variation when crossing Snail Trail and P.P`s Jacket makes it particularly good value. The number [22] is painted on the rock.

  • 22 - Central Icefall Direct

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 1

    The juggy break at the right side of the First Set Back. The number [23] is painted on the rock.

  • 23 - Hitting the Wall

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    A low traverse right from Central Icefall Direct to Pump `til you Jump. Can be very greasy. The number [24] is painted on the rock.

  • 24 - Babylon Blitz

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall using footholds in Central Icefall Direct and top out using the short, leaning arête and hanging garden to the left. The number [25] is painted on the rock.

  • 25 - Thirty Feet of Pain

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 1

    An excellent route for which it is advisable to rope up. The overhanging wall two metres to the right. The number [26] is painted on the rock.

  • 26 - Haardvark

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Climb the sandy, overhanging wall three metres farther rightThe number [27] is painted on the rock.

  • 27 - Cruel Country

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    A high-level leftwards traverse above Hitting the Wall, from Pump `til you Jump to Central Icefall Direct. Avoids the greasiness that affects the lower part of this wall and provides the best line hereabouts for the full traverse. The number [28] is painted on the rock.

  • 28 - Pump `til you Jump

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Climb the slightly right-leading weakness past interesting ledges. The number [29] is painted on the rock.

  • 29 - Twelve Dreams

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    A very low-level traverse from Pump `til you Jump to Mad Aardvark`s Tea Party. The number [30] is painted on the rock.

  • 30 - Still Raining, Still Dreaming

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    A big route, rarely soloed, but with adequate protection where it really matters. Climb the wall immediately right of Pump `til you Jump (Friend protection high up). The number [31] is painted on the rock.

  • 31 - Grow Wings

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    The overhanging wall one metre farther right. The lower half is the crux, but above the peg a degree of optimism is needed. A crucial low hold has recently snapped off this route, since when there has been no record of it being climbed. It will certainly now be a lot harder. The number [32] is painted on the rock.

  • 32 - Imitation Arapiles

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Good, committing climbing into and beyond the shallow cave at the top. The number [33] is painted on the rock.

  • 33 - Going Deaf for a Living

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Traverse leftwards from Mad Aardvark at about four metres, then move up slightly and continue to Pump `til You Jump. Embarrassingly difficult for the short-legged. The number [34] is painted on the rock.

  • 34 - Mad Aardvark`s Tea Party

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    The faint, dog-leg crack with a good jug at four metres. The number [35] is painted on the rock.

  • 35 - Gruts

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 2

    Traverse tenaciously from Mad Aardvark`s Tea Party to Muddy Wobble Block; a bit like doing pull-ups sideways. The number [36] is painted on the rock.

  • 36 - Pop Tart

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    Climb the overhanging wall on the right, starting at a loose block. The number [37] is painted on the rock.

  • 37 - Like a Slug but Sucks

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 1

    Climb the wall one metre left of the Second Set Back. Different starts are possible. The number [38] is painted on the rock.

  • 38 - Slug the Thug

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    A direct line to the left side of a recess at the Second Set Back. The number [40] is painted on the rock.

  • 39 - Added Incentive

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    The overhanging wall up the centre of the Second Set Back. The number [41] is painted on the rock.

  • 40 - Muddy Wobble Block

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    The obvious, blocky weakness. The number [42] is painted on the rock.

  • 41 - Mr. Skin

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1987
    Rating: 2

    A brilliant low sequence. Getting to the sandy cave is hard, leaving it is even harder. Traverse rightwards from Muddy Wobble Block to Semen Scream with the crux passing Blatantly Slimy Slug. Jump off where the good holds end or continue as far as Bend of the Rainbow for 1st prize. The number [43] is painted on the rock.

  • 42 - Waiting in the Wings

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall immediately left of a thin crack to a loose wall at the right side of the Second Set Back. The number [44] is painted on the rock.

  • 43 - Muscles in their Imagination

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Climb to the left side of a small cave. Finish on the left. The number [45] is painted on the rock.

  • 44 - Weir Aardvark

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Gain the cave at its highest point. The number [46] is painted on the rock.

  • 45 - Blatantly Slimy Slug

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 1

    The thin crackline on the right. The number [47] is painted on the rock.

  • 46 - Company of Wolves

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall one metre to the right. The number [48] is painted on the rock.

  • 47 - The Howling

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall from the right side of a cave at the foot of the crag. The number [49] is painted on the rock.

  • 48 - Dyno ... Bucket

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall on the right, just right of a faint crack, past a `bucket` at three metres.

  • 49 - Semen Scream

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Climb the steep wall at the left side of the Third Set Back via an obvious cave. The number [51] is painted on the rock.

  • 50 - Smeg City

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 1

    The steep wall two metres to the right gives a satisfying problem on excellent rock. Jumping for the first good jug reduces the grade. The number [52] is painted on the rock.

  • 51 - The Gauntlet

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the faint right-leading crack. The number [53] is painted on the rock.

  • 52 - Big Marine

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    The wall one metre to the right. There is also a low start on two crimps at 6c. The number [54] is painted on the rock.

  • 53 - Renal Failure

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1987
    Rating: 2

    Climb the wall one metre farther right. Similar, but harder than Big Marine. The number [55] is painted on the rock.

  • 54 - The Motion Vector

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 2

    Powerful crimping on tinies. From a hanging start in a niche, climb up the wall, avoiding the undercut on Push to Prolapse.

  • 55 - Push to Prolapse

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating:

    Short, but power-packed. This one involves slapping for the top from that Longridge rarity – a good undercut. A direct line one metre left of the right side of the Third Set Back. The number [56] is painted on the rock.

  • 56 - Bend of the Rainbow

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 3

    Longridge`s best traverse and possibly its best route of any kind. Traverse right from a lonely jug to the right of Push to Prolapse, until bridged smugly across New Stone Age. The number [57] is painted on the rock.

  • 57 - Eat `em and Smile

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1987
    Rating: 1

    A direct line immediately to the right of the lonely jug. The number [57] is painted on the rock.

  • 58 - Rug Thug

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 2

    Climb the vague right-leading crackline. Hard and unrelenting. The number [58] is painted on the rock.

  • 59 - In Excess

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 3

    Hard and surprising climbing one metre farther right. The number [59] is painted on the rock.

  • 60 - Fertile Delta

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    Essentially a direct start to Porridge Gun, but containing one of the crag`s most finger-searing pulls. Two metres to the right is an excellent jug. Use this and continue up the wall above. A hanging start can be made from a square-cut pocket. The number [60a] is painted on the rock.

  • 61 - Porridge Gun

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    Brilliant climbing, both technical and strenuous and on perfect rock. It eases off slightly towards the top, but it is still a long way down! Start one metre right and climb up and left until it is possible to finish up Fertile Delta. The number [60] is painted on the rock.

  • 62 - Anal Cave-In

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 1

    Start one metre right and climb directly to the top of the crag via a shallow cave. The number [61] is painted on the rock.

  • 63 - Scorched August

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 1

    An under-rated route that does not get the attention it deserves. The number [62] is painted on the rock.

  • 64 - New Stone Age

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 1

    Awkward moves up the obvious big groove line. The number [63] is painted on the rock.

  • 65 - Unnatural Selection

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Traverse rightwards near the foot of the crag from New Stone Age to Jacob`s Ladder.

  • 66 - Unknown Arête

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the right-hand arête of the groove, mainly on the outside. The number [64] is painted on the rock.

  • 67 - Missing Link

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 1

    A very rarely repeated problem. Climb the wall two metres right of the groove. The number [66] is painted on the rock.

  • 68 - Chocolate Popsicle

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall one metre farther right, with a massive reach from an undercut.

  • 69 - Moschops

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 1

    Climb the wall one metre to the right. Committing and exciting. The number [67] is painted on the rock.

  • 70 - Ascent of Man

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 3

    Traverse leftwards along the high break from Jacob`s Ladder to New Stone Age; brilliant. Never desperate, but a test of strength, stamina and nimble-footedness – like ballet sideways. The number [68] is painted on the rock.

  • 71 - Jacob`s Ladder

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    Climb twin cracks to a concrete post. The number [69] is painted on the rock.

  • 72 - Spah`s Daehniks

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    The boldest route on this wall, with an uninviting landing. Traverse right along the high break from Jacob`s Ladder to Runaway. The number [70] is painted on the rock.

  • 73 - Orifice of Faeces

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 1

    A direct line to a gorse bush near a concrete post. The number [71] is painted on the rock.

  • 74 - Neolithic Technology

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 1

    Climb the wall at two faint parallel cracks. The number [72] is painted on the rock.

  • 75 - From Ape to Aardvark

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    A direct line starting at an obvious horizontal finger-slot. The number [73] is painted on the rock.

  • 76 - Descent of Man

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 2

    Unusually vertical for Longridge, but what it lacks in steepness, it makes up for in technicality. An intricate and satisfying sequence. Traverse left at a low level from Runaway to Jacob`s Ladder. An on-sight link-up with Ascent of Man is still impressive. The number [74] is painted on the rock.

  • 77 - Runaway

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    The juggy wall. The number [75] is painted on the rock.

  • 78 - And She Was

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the steep wall via ledges on the right. The number [76] is painted on the rock.

  • 79 - Some Friend

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Start between two trees and climb directly to the top. The number [77] is painted on the rock.

  • 80 - Thug

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Three metres right of the trees climb a blunt rib. The number [78] is painted on the rock.

  • 81 - Headline

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres to the right and climb via ledges to finish just right of a large tree at the top of the crag. The number [79] is painted on the rock.

  • 82 - Unnamed

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall directly to an in-situ sling. The number [80] is painted on the rock.

  • 83 - Year of the Rabbit

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    The prominent jutting prow at the right-hand end of the wall. Exit up loose rock.

  • 84 - Way Out

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 0

    Farther right, and at a slightly higher level, there is a square-cut recess. Climb this and exit left at the top.