This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 2
This route takes a line of runnels six metres right of Goodbye Cruel World. Climb the steep wall to the first runnel via a bolt and a good peg, then step left and climb small ledges to gain the next runnel. Move left again to long runnel (peg) and climb this to an exit up flakes on the right at the top.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1993
Rating: 1
Start at the left edge of the steep spoil-heap at the foot of the wall and scramble up the edge of the spoil to reach a thin flake in the wall to the left. Follow this to a horizontal crack at 12 metres, then step left to a good hold. Stand on this then delicately climb leftwards to reach an excellent crack below the roof. A fingery swing directly over the roof leads to a good break (Friend 21/2), step right and continue up the headwall to finish on good holds.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1993
Rating: 1
Start five metres to the right of Black Gold and gain a shallow groove using good pockets, then continue up a crack to the overlap. Pull through this strenuously on brilliant holds to reach a fine crack system above. Follow this, slightly right to the final roof. and pull carefully over this to reach the top.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1993
Rating: 2
In the past, climbers driving down the Barrow cul-de-sac were probably lost. However, this route now provides a good reason to travel into Furness. It is a fine climb with some good positions, which is sustained at a reasonable grade throughout and is reasonably protected. The overlap is easier than it appears from below and there is a delicate crux high up. Follow the prominent crack system at the left-hand side of the curving overlap to the top overlap. Continue, using the wall on the left and the wide crack, to gain a shallow snaking runnel in the wall above. Climb this delicately past an excellent nut slot to reach a horizontal crack below the final scoop and finish up this. It is also possible to finish up a nose on the left side of the scoop.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 1
Start from a grassy mound five metres left of Black Gold and follow a left-leaning crack to a quartz patch. Move rightwards up a narrow ramp to gain another left-leaning crack and follow this for about four metres until it thins out (runners). Step right, then climb up until forced right (Friend 0 in a finger slot) and continue up to reach a good jug. Finish direct.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1993
Rating: 0
Start 15 metres to the left and three metres right of an obvious winding runnel. Climb up a clean slab to a flake, move up and right to about three metres below a grassy pock-marked overlap, then trend diagonally right into a small vague scoop. Continue up and right, past two good runners to a ledge. Climb leftwards on calcite flakes to the diagonal break of The Pipe and step on to the wall above. Pull up to a thin crack and climb this directly to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1993
Rating: 1
This pleasant route that follows the obvious winding runnel 18 metres left of Black Gold. Enter the rounded niche at three metres and continue, crossing the diagonal line of The Pipe, following the runnel until it fades. Climb the wall above, keeping right of the grassy area, then trend left to a dirty finish.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1998
Rating: 0
This climb is named after a curious fossil formation in a pocket on the right about a metre below the top. It should improve and become slightly easier with traffic. Follow the obvious diagonal break that runs rightwards across the face. About three metres after passing the curving runnel on Baedecker, it is necessary to step right to a small ledge, then climb the wall for a short way to regain the break.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1993/1998)
Rating: 1
Start just left of the foot of The Pipe, below a smooth slab, and climb up then left to a good hidden pocket at five metres. Balance up to gain a thin crack and follow this and the centre of the clean slab above to a bolt. Continue to the top via interesting quartz crystals. The crack/runnel on the left gives an easier start, though it is destined to become an independent line.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 0
Six metres left of The Pipe there is an obvious crack/runnel. Climb this until it peters out and the rock steepens (small ledge). Move up and left to reach a handrail and traverse left using this to reach a prominent left-leaning, curving crack. Follow this to its end, then make a couple of awkward moves left to a finish up a shallow runnel.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1998
Rating: 0
Start 13 metres left of the foot of The Pipe at a short, broken runnel. Climb this and the continuation flake past a slight bulge until it is possible to step left and climb the short wall to the crack above. Climb this and finish up a short depression at the top.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1993
Rating: 0
Climb the runnel on Au, then go left and up a pocketed slab directly to reach a good hold. Continue straight up a vague depression to a steepening, then step left and climb straight up to a dirty finish.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 1
Start three metres left of Glassbead Game, directly below thin slanting cracks at four metres. Take a direct line line past these cracks to finish up a scoop.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1993
Rating: 1
Climb the scalloped crack six metres left to a small ledge and continue direct, passing a prominent white rock scar at its left edge. Move up a delightful slab to the foot of a shallow runnel, climb this to its top, then exit carefully above.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1993
Rating: 1
Follow the thin crack up the slab about six metres to the left, and just right of a prominent narrow runnel, to a peg, where thin moves lead to a small overlap. Pull over on to the slab, and climb the delicate scoop above, pulling over the final block to finish on top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1993/1999)
Rating: 0
Climb the first six metres of The Golden Flute to where the runnel deepens, then step right and climb the wall to a ledge below the headwall. Move right into an obvious runnel at the right-hand side of this wall and follow this to the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 0
Climb direct to the original route via an obvious hole just right of the runnel.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 2
The deep runnel at the left-hand side of the wall gives pleasant climbing up this unique feature and is destined to become a classic of its grade. Climb the runnel until, just below the top, it is necessary to step left to a peg and finish up a short wall.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1993
Rating:
Start two metres to the left and scramble up three metres of grass, then follow a narrow vertical runnel to a horizontal line at eight metres, just below the peg on Neibelheim. Make a long step right across the peach-coloured streak on the slab, then climb directly over the rounded grey bulge then step right and finish easily as for Gold Digger.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1999
Rating: 0
A direct start to Hunding, which is easier than it looks. From the foot of The Golden Flute, climb up to a foothold at about three metres, then continue past crozzly rock to gain Hunding at the end of it’s traverse. Move up Hunding for a couple of metres, then step right and climb the rib. Finish past a peg runner as for Hunding.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1993
Rating: 0
Climb into an open hole one metre farther left and continue directly to reach a thin crack at eight metres. Follow this slightly rightwards, past an ancient peg until the angle eases, then cross delicately right to join the upper section of Gold Digger, and finish up this.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1993
Rating: 0
Start from a small block below the smooth slab on the left. Climb directly up the slab to a nut slot, then follow a short ramp on the left to a clean wide crack. Continue straight up the easier slab to a spike just left of a grassy crack. Climb the wall above to a nut slot, then move left and go up to a peg. Finish directly up the headwall on good holds.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1993
Rating: 0
Start five metres farther left at the base of a stack of blocks resting against the face. Climb on to the lower right edge of the blocks and pull on to the wall to a flake pocket (Friend 3). Climb up and slightly right, following a shallow groove, to reach a nut by the right-hand crack. Traverse diagonally left into the centre of the face to a conspicuous hole, then climb the fine wall above, past a peg, to reach the short finishing crack.