This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
Climb up to the right-hand side of the overhang and move leftwards above it.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 0
To the left of the narrow, white wall is a grooveline through the blocky buttress. Finish up the groove and slab.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 0
The right-leaning crack with a tree part way up it at the left side of the wall.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: ( March 1996)
Rating: 0
There is some loose rock on this route. From the lowest point on the main face of the quarry, move up and right, then finish up a blocky groove that forms the right-hand edge of the crag.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
Climb the overhang, just left of centre at a thin crack.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 0
A bold route. The climbing is superb, but some of the rock is suspect. Climb above the bolt belay and move left over the bulge. Continue up a bulging wall to a ledge, then finish on the right.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 0
Start at the centre of the wall between Yoruba and Ebo, then at the top bear slightly left to the large tree.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: ( March 1996)
Rating: 0
Start immediately to the left and climb up to the obvious diagonal crack which leads leftwards. Follow this to its end, then climb directly to the top.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1969)
Rating: 0
Start at the left-hand side of the overhang and climb the rib until it is possible to move out left to polished jugs on its left side. Pull up to higher jugs to finish on the right.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 0
Less steep and not so bold as Congestion. Start as for Congestion, then move right into a scoop and continue to a ledge. Follow a crack and flutings to the top.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 0
The deep crack in the centre of the wall.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: ( March 1996)
Rating: 0
Start at a tree where the ground just starts to rise and climb straight up.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
Start one metre to the left and pull over the overhang using undercuts to make a long reach and gain dirty holds. Move right and exit as for The Overhang.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 0
The route has a sea cliff feel about it and an air of seriousness. From a ledge at the base of the white wall, traverse right past a bolt and descend to the base of the buttress. Climb up to the foot of a hanging flake crack, then finish up a crack/groove.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 0
Farther right is a block at the foot of the wall. Climb the steep wall above this, then a thin crack to a bulge. Continue on small holds to the final bulging wall which is climbed strenuously to the top.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: ( March 1996)
Rating: 0
From a stump at the foot of the rock, climb to a small triangular niche at four metres using good, but hidden holds, then either continue directly to the top, or step right then finish direct.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 0
The shallow groove with drill marks, below a cluster of trees: very popular and polished.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1989
Rating: 1
Finger jamming in a fine position above water. So named, because youngsters were jumping off the top of the crag past the climbers during the hot summer when the first ascent was made. Start as for Mazatla, but continue traversing to a block on the right, then climb up to undercut, twin cracks and follow these to the top.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 0
From the corner at the foot of the quarry, climb up the large ledge, then finish up the short corner behind a tree.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 0
The wall on the left gives subtle climbing. Finish between the two obvious trees.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
The clean-cut groove on the right of the main smooth slab.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 1
A right-to-left traverse of the wall, the first moves being the hardest. Climb the first three metres of The Pit to a good flake, then use this to move on to the wall above. Hard moves then lead to a niche, where a break can be followed to a finish up Yoruba.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
The wall on the left is split by an obvious overhang. Start at a vague rib at the right side of this overhang and climb through the roof.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 1
A serious route with poor protection and some suspect rock. Climb the smooth slab, starting just right of centre and finishing directly up the centre.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1973
Rating:
The wall can be girdled from left to right, with a rope move from the peg on Uhuru to cross the difficult rock.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1974-75)
Rating: 0
Climb up to a cave at the left side of the overhang, then pull out right over the roof and make a very long reach to finishing holds.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 0
The steep rib on the left.
Grade: | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
Climb the blunt rib on the left side of the cave to finish on rounded holds.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
Start six metres left, below the highest section of the quarry. Climb easily up easy-angled rock, then gain a ledge on the left. Make an awkward move on to a second ledge, then traverse right to an undercut ledge below the top. Move right to a tree to finish.
Grade: | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating:
Left again is another cave at four metres. Gain this, then exit on the right as for the Original route.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 0
The wall on the left, containing a rusted spike.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
Climb a narrow slab on the right of a deep, sinuous crack. The crux is the exit over the top bulge, which can be taken either on its left or right. Finish on the terrace and descend to the right.
Grade: | First Ascent: (1974-75)
Rating: 0
Start four metres to the left, below a stump at two metres. Climb the wall either left or right of the stump.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 0
Climb the steep crack that starts on the left.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 1
Three metres to the left is a blunt rib with a small niche at half-height. Climb this direct.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 0
A metre to the left climb the steep corner.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 1
Start just past the rib bounding the overhanging wall. Climb the rib, or the wall on the left, to an easing of the angle just below the capping overhang. Traverse left to Movie Maker and finish up the rib. It is also possible to finish direct past the capping overhang at the start of the traverse, but this misses the best climbing.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
Climb the V-shaped groove in the angle, left of the start of Delectable Traverse, or climb its left rib. Surmount the overhang and finish directly past a hole in the capping overhang.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 1
The rib and roof directly below the finish of Delectable Traverse.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 0
Start just left, directly below the left side of the large overhang. Climb up to this overhang go through it, then continue directly to the top.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
The overhanging groove on the left.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
There is now an obvious recess, reached by a three-metre scramble. This route follows the corner above the right side of the recess.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 1
From the left side of the recess move awkwardly up a steep groove. Step out left on to a slab then back right to finish up the steep wall.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1974-75)
Rating: 0
Climb the overhanging nose direct up its centre.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1975
Rating: 0
Climb Burlesque to the first overhang, then move left and go up over blocks to reach the normal route. Cross this and finish up the overlap above.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
Start below the highest part of the quarry wall and move up with some difficulty to gain the rightward-leading diagonal break; follow this to the top.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 2
Start up Ivy Way then move left into a shallow groove. Move up slightly, then go left again on to the face, where good holds lead to the top. One of the best routes in the quarry.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 2
Usually top-roped; because protection is virtually impossible to arrange before the crux, and the landing is unfriendly. Start two metres left of Ivy Way below an overhang. Climb the blunt rib to the left side of the overhang, then pull rightwards on to the front face. Make a tricky move up then continue more easily, joining Leaning Tower to finish.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
Climb the groove just to the left and the bulge above on blocky holds, and finish up the left side of the tower.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
Two metres to the left is a steep groove containing a movable block. Climb the groove quite strenuously and move up rightwards towards a tree. Finish via a short crack and go leftwards up the final wall.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1970
Rating: 1
Start two metres left of Original Route and climb over a roof, then follow a groove to a large, square-cut overhang. Take this by a crack on its left and finish straight up.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: -1
Climb the steep, loose wall to the right of Autumn Leaves.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: -1
Climb the projecting rib to a scoop beneath an overhang. Using a good undercut, make a delicate move up to reach better holds on the left (loose) then finish trending leftwards.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
The groove on the left proves harder than it looks.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 1
Just to the left is a series of long slanting overhangs rising leftwards, with an obvious horizontal crack below. Climb to the right-hand end of the overhangs and move up and left using undercuts, until an awkward move leads into a groove, which provides an easier finish.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 1
Climb the overhang above the centre of the traverse.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 1
Just left of the finish of Great Flake is a shallow groove. Climb this, using the rib on the right, to join Great Flake to finish.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -2001
Rating: 1
Climb the shallow groove direct from the foot of Bogie`s Groove to the overhang. Pull straight over this with the aid of a short diagonal crack on the left and continue past another overlap to finish.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 1
Climb the steep, smooth-looking wall on the left, via a shallow, left-facing corner at six metres. Then make a tricky mantelshelf to reach easier ground.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1974-75)
Rating: 0
Climb the wall on the left which is initially steep.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 1
Start to the left of this wall beneath an obvious projecting block at four metres. Climb past this, step up and right then continue up the wall to the top, on good holds.
Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:
From the block a Direct Finish is possible.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
From the projecting block on Pete`s Route, follow a shallow groove diagonally left, then step back right and finish direct.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1991
Rating: 0
Start three metres left, beneath an overhang at three metres. Climb a short blunt rib, then move slightly left through the overhang and go back right to a ledge. Finish easily.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
Just past the boulder the rock is split by a small overlap. Climb to the rightmost of two niches, then continue through the overlap and follow the right-leading ramp.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
Start three metres farther left and climb to the right side of a higher roof. Then use flake cracks on the right to enable a finish to be made up the short headwall.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
Climb to the overhang via a deep groove and flake crack in its centre, then move left round the roof to good finishing holds.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 0
Climb the next groove easily to the roof, reach over then pull through on good holds.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1997
Rating: 0
Climb the groove on the left, finishing at the obvious flake.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1974-75)
Rating: 0
The short, clean wall about three metres farther left gives a pleasant climb.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 1
A classic of the genre, with well-defined breaks indicating the line for most of the way. The feet should never be more than 11/2 metres from the ground. The steep wall left of Gunboot Groove is the crux (a hold has recently disappeared, making it harder and the projecting block is becoming a little rickety). Rounding the rib at the start of Autumn Leaves is also very tricky on first acquaintance, but virtually all of the leftward half of the traverse is good. The whole affair is now becoming more entertaining as it becomes ever more highly polished. If the car-park section is too easy try it one handed – seriously!