LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The Front

  • 61 - Crinoid

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1970
    Rating: 0

    Round to the left is an obvious deep chimney. Reach this by any of several possible lines and climb it to the terraces. Finish by the groove at the left side of the upper wall (left of Night Flight).

  • 62 - The Pate

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Start as for Sluice, but continue directly up the bold arĂȘte right of that route`s jamming crack.

  • 63 - Sluice

    Grade: 5a,5a | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 1

    A bold wall and surprising finish make this climb much better than it looks.

  • 63.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the wall left of the chimney at a brown streak, to horizontal cracks and welcome runners. Climb the diagonal jamming crack to the terraces.

  • 63.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the centre of the upper wall via a thin right-facing corner, to the crack in the overhangs for a pleasing finale.

  • 64 - Shady Blade

    Grade: 5b,5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

  • 64.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Start three metres to the left and gain a ledge at two metres. From the right side of this, climb up and slightly right to the centre of the overlap on the left of the jamming crack of Sluice, then follow the lesser crack on the left of Sluice, to the top of the wall.

  • 64.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the narrow wall to the left of Jomo, without using holds in Sluice, then finish direct around the roof.

  • 65 - Incantations

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1980
    Rating: 0

    From the left of the ledge at the start of Shady Blade, step up left then climb the wall just right of a thin crackline, through a small overlap. Finish leftwards up the top wall and belay on the terrace.

  • 66 - Night Flight

    Grade: 4c,4c | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

  • 66.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    From the ledge at the start of Shady Blade climb diagonally leftwards by a series of small ramps/ledges (poorly protected) and go up into a recess below cracked roofs. Climb back right through the overhangs, past an obvious borehole.

  • 66.1a - Variation

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb horizontally rightwards to escape the roofs and up to belay on the terrace.

  • 66.2 - Pitch 3

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the wall left of Sluice, to a short final crack.

  • 66a - Eclipse

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    Start one and a half metres to the right of Frontage, below a short rightward facing groove leading to a small roof at about three meters. Climb up to a good wire under the roof. Move right and pull up onto the slab using good incuts. Move easily up to a good large nut at the top of the obvious vertical bore hole. Step down and pull round to the right onto good holds leading up the wall to the halfway ledge.

  • 67 - Frontage

    Grade: 4a,4b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

  • 67.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Start at the far left side of the wall and climb a broken groove and slab to gain a deep corner and continue to the roof. Continue through the blocks to the terrace.

  • 67.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the crack immediately left of the arĂȘte above and finish easily over blocks.