LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Ramps Area

  • 54 - Ramp Ant

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 1

    The red ramp bounding Asylum Wall on its left leads very pleasantly to broken ledges and a choice of finishes. There now follows a very broken section with no climbs and no appeal. A few metres farther left the quarry wall stands forward again.

  • 54a - Ramp Ant Left-Hand

    Grade: | First Ascent: -2000
    Rating: 0

    Start about ten metres up and left of the start of Ramp Ant at an easy-angled groove a couple of metres left of a small sapling. Climb the groove past two overlaps to a short corner, then ascend this to a ledge on its left. Pass to the right side of a sapling and climb up and right to join Ramp Ant. Finish up this. Surprisingly pleasant but should improve with traffic.

  • 55 - Crematorium

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    Climb the steep, shattered and often wet, groove in the angle at shot mark `125` about three metres right of an ash tree at the foot of the rock. At a bulge move left on to a slab then continue to a belay at 15 metres. Move back right and climb right of a crack, past an overhanging block, then go left and up a crack to a groove and wall finish.

  • 56 - Pig in a Poke

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Start as for Jomo and follow Pigfall to the foot of the arête. Then step right (block and sapling – possible belay) below a steep clean slab and climb it with scant protection.

  • 56a - Direct Start

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating:

    The steep blank wall directly below Pig in a Poke. Start right of the tree by the 125 mark and climb the wall, then easier ground to Pig in a Poke.

  • 57 - Pigfall

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 1

    Start as for Jomo, but when the easy slabs are reached move up to the foot of a fine arête. This is exposed and poorly protected but never very hard.

  • 58 - One of these Days

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    The fine narrow wall between the upper part of Jomo and Pigfall, starting at the top of the diagonal crack on Jomo.

  • 59 - Jomo

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 3

    A fine varied outing, marred only by the terrace at half-height. The start feels both hard and bold but the angle soon eases. Start below the rounded light-coloured rib behind some saplings. Climb this to easy slabs and bear left to a diagonal crack. Climb this to the terrace and block belays. Follow the steep gangway behind to the small roof, which is passed (easier than it looks). Step right onto the fluted wall to finish.

  • 60 - Very Ordinary Route

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Climb the cracked groove left of Jomo (often used as a cheating start to that route) to large ledges and block belays. From the upper left end of the terraces finish up cracks and blocks. A poor climb, but a useful DESCENT route – with care!