LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Diamond Wall

  • 0 - Diamond Necklace

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -2001
    Rating: 0

    Start on the right of the buttress and climb across at a low level to join Diamonds at a small bush. Traverse left and reverse Arc, following the obvious horizontal line past Lonely Wall and Little Lil. Continue delicately left into a small left-facing corner, pull up and finish leftwards towards trees.

  • 1 - Diamonds

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Follow the right-curving ramp on the right side of the buttress, then gain ledges on the left and continue left under the overhang to a bold, but easy landing.

  • 1a - Diamond Dogs

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -2001
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall between Arc and Diamonds to the obvious horizontal break. Traverse the break leftwards to its end at a short, left-slanting corner, then either pull up here, or continue traversing in the same line to easier ground.

  • 2 - Arc

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
    Rating: 1

    From the foot of the right-curving ramp gain a shallow left-facing corner. From the top of this traverse right, then step up to the overhang and finish as for Diamonds.

  • 3 - Lonely Wall

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 1

    A surprisingly good route, but a serious lead since the loss of the peg. Start behind the rightmost of three small trees growing very close to the wall and climb up to a ledge, then go up and left to the horizontal break (Friend strongly advised) about one metre right of a drill mark. Go straight up to the bulge and cross it diagonally rightwards. Tree belays. The upper tier is very loose and it is best to descend the grassy ramp.

  • 3a - Koh-i-Noor

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -2001
    Rating: 1

    Start by the leftmost (largest) of the three trees growing close to the wall. Climb up and right to the vertical drill mark and good runners at the break. Pull onto the small projecting ledge above and continue boldly over the bulge to finish.

  • 4 - Little Lil

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 1

    The short, slim, hanging corner left of the three trees.

  • 5 - Boulderdash

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

    Climb the centre of the lower wall with difficulty (an easier alternative exists on the left); finish by the easier blocky crack on the left.