LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Seaward Area

  • 28 - Father Ted

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Start in the angle about five metres to the left of Bird of Prey and climb up and left to a grass ledge. Climb a short wall to the top.

  • 29 - Natalie

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    This is the blunt arête just right of the angle.

  • 30 - Pocket Spider

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 1

    Immediately left of Bird of Prey there is an obvious pocket low down, directly below a small sapling at the top of the crag. Climb the wall on various finger pockets to join Bird of Prey.

  • 31 - Bird of Prey

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: 1

    Two metres to the left of the Scout Rock, there is an obvious clean V-shaped groove. Follow this to a bulge near the top, then move left and finish up a shallow groove past the sapling.

  • 32 - Cornish Raider

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the thin groove and continuation rib that is squeezed in between Bird of Prey and Scout Rock.

  • 33 - Scout Rock

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: 0

    The crack in the arête looks precarious but feels sound – so far!

  • 34 - The Kitchen Sink

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: 0

    Four metres to the right is a low ledge with a short, square corner at its right side. Climb this to an obvious flake with a wide crack behind it, move left (treating the flake with respect) then go back right to finish by a short crack and slab.

  • 35 - Fern Amina

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1994
    Rating: 0

    Midway between Kitchen Sink and Great Gonzo, climb the wall to a ledge, then climb a bulge to another ledge on good holds. Finish by climbing rocks above, trending left using a crack.

  • 36 - The Great Gonzo

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: 0

    About nine metres to the right of Scout Rock, at red-stained rock, there is a blank slab above a small recess. Climb this on good holds to a ledge then continue to a further ledge and finish rightwards via an easy, grassy ramp.

  • 37 - Jackie

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1994
    Rating: 0

    Start about three metres to the right, below a small pedestal at three metres. Climb on easy holds to the bulge, then harder climbing leads directly to the top.

  • 38 - Nordic Skiing

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres to the right and follow a left-leading weakness over three steps to a bulge, then surmount this direct.

  • 39 - Mr Moussalli

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    From the start of Nordic Skiing, take a direct line up the wall, finishing over blocks.

  • 40 - Scamp

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres to the right, where the easy rocks at the foot of the crag start to rise. Climb up the wall via a hidden crack, then finish over blocks.

  • 41 - Sea-Level Girdle

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: 0

    Does not always live up to its name! Though not sustained it has some good sections. Right of Spring Tide it is relatively easy, a fact which is sometimes very useful to know.

  • 42 - The Onedin Line

    Grade: 4b,4c | First Ascent: -1969
    Rating: 2

    A superb outing, especially at high tide. Start at the right-hand end of the obvious rising break on a choice of ledges (not so much choice at high tide!), as for Morecambe Bay Eliminate.

  • 42.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Gain the break and follow it leftwards to a stance in the trees above Brant`s Little Brother.

  • 42.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Move awkwardly left across the groove and the top of the cave then continue along the break to another prickly stance. It is advisable to stay roped together for the scramble off above.