This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1969
Rating: 1
Bridge up out of the cave on its left and continue up the deep pink groove to the overlap. Move left to a finish up the groove of Curlew.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
Rating: 1
Start below the steep corner at the left end of the wall. Climb the corner until it is possible to step rightwards on to the wrinkled slab. Move right and go up the edge of this.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0
The overhanging rib on the right demands forceful climbing. Abseil descent from the yew, or finish up Brant`s.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -2000
Rating: 0
Start under the slab of Wrinkled Slab. Use hidden holds on both sides of the big prow before committing to small holds on the slab itself. An awkward pull over gains the slab and easy ground. A prior ascent of Wrinkled Slab definitely helps in locating useful holds!
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
Rating: 2
The obvious V-shaped groove has several chockstones, which rattle cheerfully but seem to be going nowhere. At the top of the groove traverse right along the horizontal break past two bolts, then move up slightly to a grassy ledge and a twin-bolt belay below a short, but prominent, corner groove in the headwall. Step right into the next groove and climb this to its top.
Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
Rating: 0
One metre to the right is a jammed block at ground level below a flake. Climb up to and past the flake.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
Rating: 0
The blunt rib right of Brant`s Little Brother is climbed directly to reach the horizontal break (bolt). Move up to the grassy ledge and a twin-bolt belay. Finish as for Brant`s or Jackal.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
Rating: 0
One metre right, climb the rounded buttress via a bulge to a vegetated crack finish.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
Rating: 1
Just right again is a fine deep crack. Climb this to the girdle break, move right then go up to a small tree. Move rightwards again to the twin-bolt belay of Brant`s below a short, prominent, corner groove. Climb the groove itself and finish up the wall on its left.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
Start immediately left of the barrier roof. Climb a left-facing flake and the wall above just right of an ash.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
Rating: 1
Just to the right are two pairs of parallel thin cracks: climb these to the girdle break, then continue to a twin-bolt belay and follow Jackal to finish.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
Rating: 0
Climb the roof at its left side to a good jug above the lip.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
Rating: 1
Just to the right, an obvious series of crazy jugs leads to a breach in the overhang. Above this step right to a twin-bolt belay, then finish up the same groove as Brant`s.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
Rating: 0
From an undercut at the back of the cave, surmount the roof past a short crack and a jug on its lip.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
Rating: 1
About three metres to the right there is a dog-leg crack which leads to the centre of the roof. Climb this to the overhang and take this directly with difficulty (there is sometimes a peg). Cross the slab easily to reach the twin-bolt belay on Brant`s, then finish as for Brant`s or Jackal.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
Climb through the roof via the next crack, which forms a block at the lip.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
Rating: 1
Climb the flaky groove on the right to the overhang and over this on good holds, then move slightly leftwards to the twin-bolt belay on Brant`s and finish up Brant`s or Jackal. A direct finish has been reported at E1, but has not been repeated since a hold came off.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
Rating: 0
Start from an obvious undercut at the back of the roof, then climb over the roof using a pocket on the lip.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
Rating: 0
On the right there is a deep, left-leading groove. Climb this, crossing the overhang above the girdle to gain the slab, then wander leftwards to the twin-bolt belay on Brant`s. Finish up Brant`s or Jackal.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
Rating: 0
Climb the roof at its right side, using a large flake jug on its lip.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
Rating: 1
Start two metres to the right, directly below a service tree with a hanging groove on its left. Climb to the break, then continue up the hanging groove to the tree (to avoid damage to the tree use the bolt above). Move up, then go left to a peg, then finish up the clean groove above.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -2001
Rating: 0
Directly gain the arête to the right of the hanging groove of Morecambe Bay Eliminate. Climb this on it`s right side to the tree, step left and finish up Morcambe Bay Eliminate.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
Rating: 0
Start one metre right of the long roof, below another roof at a slightly higher level that has a left-trending diagonal crack above it. Climb the cracked wall to the upper roof, then gain the diagonal crack with difficulty and continue to the top.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
Rating: 0
Just to the right is a large white groove: start up this and escape left, to the tree on Morecambe Bay Eliminate (to avoid damage to the tree it is `wise` to use the bolt above). Finish up that route.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
Start at a short, left-curving crack one metre left of the right-hand end of the wall. Climb the crack and the wall on its right, then make long reaches between horizontal breaks to finish.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1994
Rating: 0
Climb Sad-Eyed Lady to the white groove, then step right above a bulge to gain the obvious tree-filled bay. Finish past two small overhangs above.