LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

South America Wall

  • 1 - Hanging Crack

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 0

    The hanging crack in a scoop about four metres to the left of the tip of South America!

  • 2 - Straight Crack

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 0

    The obvious wide crack immediately to the right.

  • 3 - Galapagos

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1973
    Rating: 0

    Start one metre to the right and gain a shallow niche, then finish up the crack above.

  • 4 - West Coast

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1973
    Rating: 1

    Start at the tip of South America and climb the left edge of the continent to finish up an easy crack.

  • 5 - Sendero Luminoso

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
    Rating: 1

    Start as for West Coast. Climb into the niche, then move up right and follow a thin crack in the centre of the face. A long reach gains a good break and good holds lead directly to the top.

  • 5a - Little Che

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -2001
    Rating:

    An alternative finish to San Antonio. From the top of the initial crack, reach right for a jug, then layback up the arĂȘte above.

  • 6 - Argentina

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1995)
    Rating: 0

    Start as for West Coast and climb the right-slanting crack to the first break, then continue up the centre of the `continent` above.

  • 7 - Belize

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
    Rating: 1

    A great little climb both technical and strenuous. Start just left of the obvious vertical crack three metres right of the tip of South America. Climb the thin, left-trending crack to gain good footholds, then finish up the overhanging flake on good holds.

  • 8 - Sandinista

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 1

    Very sustained and fine in the lower half. Start at the foot of the very thin vertical crack immediately right of Belize. Climb this crack by an awkward layback from the right. The steep corner above is easier than it looks.

  • 8a - American Dream

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    An interesting problem up the centre of the smooth wall between Sandinista and San Miguel.

  • 9 - San Miguel

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
    Rating: 1

    Start three metres to the right at the foot of another thin vertical crack. Climb this crack, moving left to a good flake on the underside of the bulge. Climb directly over the bulge and finish direct.

  • 10 - San Antonio

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 1

    One metre to the right of San Miguel a faint vertical crack leads to the obvious V-corner above. Climb the crack to the horizontal break and finish up the very steep corner above.

  • 10a - Piranha

    Grade: 5b/c | First Ascent: -2000
    Rating: 1

    Climb the wall between San Antonia and Pablo to the break. Follow the hanging flake crack above to a last pull onto the easy slab.

  • 11 - Pablo

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wide crack in the steep corner to a jammed block. Pull over the bulge rightwards and finish on excellent sculpted holds.

  • 12 - Crack Climb

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    The flaky crack two metres farther to the right.