LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Ronson Kirkby Area

  • 41 - Left Wall

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
    Rating: 0

    Start just right of the gully below a left-facing flake at head height. Climb on to a ledge, then climb the flake and slab to the top.

  • 42 - The Rib

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
    Rating: 1

    Start at a faint rib just left of the obvious crack of Wings. Climb the rib via a nice step up using a runnel.

  • 43 - Wings

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 1

    A very pleasant climb. Climb the groove/crack immediately left of the overhang, with an interesting move at the overhang.

  • 44 - Pegasus

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1975/Pre-1991)
    Rating: 1

    Start two metres to the right, directly below a horizontal slot on the lip of the overhang. Climb up to some blocks below the bulge. Climb to the overhang, then pull over on the horizontal slot and reach good holds to gain the upper wall.

  • 45 - Winged Traverse

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1975
    Rating: 0

    Start up Pegasus and traverse right below the roof past the `eye` and finish direct where the break widens. A finish can also be made via the `eye` at a similar grade.

  • 45a - Golden Fleece

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -2001
    Rating: 0

    Start between Pegasus and Cyclops. Use a poor undercut on the right to reach a poorer sloper on the left, up to crimps under the roof, then up and over.

  • 46 - Cyclops

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
    Rating: 2

    The first moves are very problematic, but the roof itself is relatively easy. Start below the small `eye` pocket above the lip at the right-hand end of the bulge. Climb the wall below and slightly right of the `eye` on poor holds to reach the horizontal break. Gain the eye and swarm up the easy face above.

  • 46a - Medusa

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -2001
    Rating: 0

    Just left of Serpent, use an undercut to yard up to the midway break. Finish upwards.

  • 47 - Serpent

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
    Rating: 1

    Start just right of the right end of the mid-height bulge below a little, waterworn crack. Climb the crack steeply and gain the sloping crack above the bulge. Foot-traverse left with ease and finish up the centre of the top wall.

  • 48 - Ronson Kirkby

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    One metre right of Serpent there is a good flake. Climb this to a ledge on the right. Climb directly to the next horizontal break and move left along this to the top.

  • 49 - Little Corner

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres right of the good flake. Climb steeply to the good ledge, then ascend the little corner above finishing up the wall on good holds.

  • 50 - Concave Wall

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
    Rating: 0

    Start one metre left of the descent gully. Climb easy cracks to a diagonal crack slanting left. Follow this to the top horizontal break and move left to finish as for Little Corner.