LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Windy Walls

  • 16 - Wild Wind

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    Start to the left of a small hawthorn bush that lies directly below the crack at the top of the crag. Climb the wall to a ledge at the foot of the top crack. Use a hidden jug to pull up right, then either step back left and finish up the crack, or finish direct.

  • 17 - Hurricane

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    Start eight metres to the left, below an obvious roof just above half height. Climb the wall directly to the left side of the roof, then swing left onto a projecting ledge and finish direct.

  • 18 - Typhoon

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    Start one metre to the left, directly below a short V-groove capped by a roof near the top of the crag. Climb the crack on the right to a ledge, then step left and enter the V-groove. Exit directly over the roof.

  • 19 - Head Wind

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    Start directly below the bleached tree and take a direct line to the top, finishing up twin cracks. Currently a little dirty at the bottom, but this should soon improve with traffic.

  • 20 - Whirlwind

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    Start about one metre to the left and climb up and right to a small ledge, then continue upwards avoiding a faint yellow scoop on its right. With hands on the horizontal break move left, then finish up the crack above.

  • 21 - Tornado

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Start about two metres to the left, directly below the right end of the distinct square-cut neb and climb the wall and the broken groove to finish at the right side of the neb.

  • 22 - Avoidance

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1971
    Rating: 1

    From the sentry-box at the foot of the crag below the distinct neb, climb the groove on the right side of the initial roof to reach the headwall below the roof of the neb. Traverse right, then finish up a short corner and crack.

  • 23 - Look Mum There`s Vikings on the Tundra Again

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 2

    The protection is good but is awkward to place and the climbing is excellent, with a spectacular pull over the roof to a typically Farleton, finishing jug. Climb Avoidance, then climb the large roof via the thin right-hand crack.

  • 23a - Unnamed

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1999
    Rating: 0

    Climb Avoidance to the roof, then climb the left-hand roof crack.

  • 24 - Rose Amongst Thorns

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1971
    Rating: 2

    Straightforward climbing to the roof is more than compensated for by an exciting finish in a wonderfully exposed position. From the start of Avoidance climb the left side of the initial roof and the groove above to a ledge under the roof. Move into the corner, climb to the roof then swing left on to the arĂȘte and an airy finish.

  • 25 - California Dreaming

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 1

    The next neb is composed of three blocks. Start below the central block and climb the loose wall to a small overhang and a shallow groove above (peg) to a more prominent triangular overhang. Move right around this and finish up the crack above.

  • 26 - Blood on the Tracks

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres to the left and climb through the roof to a hanging groove that leads to the left side of the three-block neb. Pass this on its right and finish up a groove.

  • 27 - Silent Jim

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: 0

    Two metres to the left there is a jutting rock fin. Climb the left side of this, then move diagonally right across the wall to finish up the short, deep, top corner which bounds the neb on its left.

  • 28 - Les`s ArĂȘte

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    10 metres left of the stone wall there is a large, square overhang. Avoid this on its right, then step back left and climb up the rounded rib above.