This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Midway Boulders Area

  • 9 - Little Triangle

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres right of the prominent triangular overhang and climb the wall to the break, then finish up the shallow groove above.

  • 10 - Big Triangle

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Start just left of the triangular overhang and gain the break using a small `pinnacle`. Step right, then climb the deep groove and the triangular overhang at its top.

  • 11 - Midway Route

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Climb the obvious weakness one metre left of the small `pinnacle` and finish up the wide corner above the ledge.

  • 12 - Bury Route

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    Start two metres left of the small `pinnacle` and climb the shallow depression and stepped corners on the left.

  • 12a - Cornetto

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1999
    Rating: 0

    Start just right of Prow Corner, directly below a bleached stump. Climb to the stump and traverse right to a rib, then climb the right side of this to finish over the bulge on good holds.

  • 13 - Prow Corner

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1994
    Rating: 0

    Just beyond the Midway Boulders on the path there is a prominent square-cut roof low down. Climb the corner on the right of this to a ledge, then step left and finish on good holds up the wall above. A rather pointless route that offers little new climbing.

  • 14 - Farleton Prow

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1994
    Rating: 2

    The impressive undercut prow demands powerful moves in an exposed position. On the first ascent a micronut was preplaced at the base of the prow itself and even with this, the climbing feels very serious. Climb Prow Corner for a couple of metres until it is possible to traverse left with feet on the break beneath the overhang, using pockets at the lip of the overhang. Ascend the arĂȘte to a good block, then finish more easily.

  • 14a - Scattergun

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1995

    A direct start past the preplaced wire.

  • 15 - Buckshot

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1977)
    Rating: 1

    A good climb, better than it looks. Start at a deep corner directly below the blunt rib of Farleton Prow. Climb the corner to the square-cut roof, then traverse left and go up to a large block. Step back right and finish up the short crack.