LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Druids` Area

  • 9 - Cormach

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 1

    Start two metres to the left of the central crack, behind a slim tree. Climb leftwards and turn the overhang on the left. Continue up leftwards to a short vertical runnel and the top.

  • 10 - Cernunnos

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 1

    An excellent steep climb on good holds. Reach the bulge as for Cormach, then move right on jugs. A long reach leads to a pocket and the top.

  • 11 - The Druid

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 2

    Poor holds and a poor landing combined with a technical start, make this a hard route. Start on top of the large block below a V-shaped vertical slot in the bulge. Climb up to the bulge on undercuts and gain poor holds in the first horizontal break. A hard pull reaches a good vertical edge high up on the right. Finish more easily.

  • 12 - Gofannon

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 0

    Climb the crack/chimney which separates the two steep walls.

  • 13 - Epona

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 1

    Climb the blunt rib one metre right of the chimney moving slightly right to finish. Surprising holds.

  • 14 - Mabon

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 2

    A great climb on superbly sculpted rock. Just right of the crack is a cluster of hazel trees. Climb up to the bulge just right of the hazel trees. A pull over the bulge on twin, vertical runnels leads to fantastic holds and the top.

  • 15 - Taranis

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 1

    A good route. Start from a block two metres to the right. Climb up to and through the next break in the bulge.