LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Gloom Area

  • 26 - Seen the Light

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Climb the crack at the left side of the wall, then instead of finishing over easy blocks, step right and climb the edge of the wall.

  • 27 - Dusk

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1992)
    Rating: 0

    Start directly below the bulge at the left end of the crag to the right of the short pink wall and a slanting crack. Climb strenuously over the bulge on poor holds to a good flake. Move right at the top to finish.

  • 28 - Gothic Wall

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 2

    A fingery climb. Start two metres to the right at a short, shallow depression and climb up, then transfer to another slim vertical crack on the right. A hard move up leads up to better holds and a less difficult finish at a small ash tree.

  • 29 - The Dark Ages

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
    Rating: 2

    An interesting route, but the crux move is easier for those with a long reach. Start just to the left of the central corner crack. Climb the wall leftwards on sketchy holds to a prominent block hold just left of the overlap. The steep wall leads on gradually improving holds to the top.

  • 29a - Silver Lining

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1999
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall just left of Gloom to the obvious projecting holds at the break. Pull past these (crux) to better holds and the left-hand finish of Gloom. Side runner in that route.

  • 30 - Gloom

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1972
    Rating: 2

    A really good route up the obvious groove. At the top it is usual to finish either right or left of the overhang, but it can also be climbed directly on good holds.

  • 31 - Umbra

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the rounded arĂȘte just right of Gloom. A very hard rock-over is followed by a thin crack. Swarm up the face to the left of the yew.

  • 32 - Underworld

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Start on the right just before some blocks on the floor and climb bulging rock to a short crack at the top.

  • 32a - Eclipsed

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1999
    Rating: 0

    Start from a block just right of Underworld and climb the bulging wall to finish left of the large yew tree.

  • 32b - Charon

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1999
    Rating: 0

    8m right of Eclipsed is a leaning wall of good rock, just right of a loose-looking cracked area. Climb the left side of the wall using a slanting hold and finish left of the top bulge.

  • 33 - Going Underground

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1994
    Rating: 0

    From the centre of the slim wall left of Troglodyte, climb up left to a small ledge beneath a yew, then pull out right over the bulge to finish.

  • 34 - The Troglodyte

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 1

    The flaky, corner groove just left of the neb.

  • 35 - Nebula

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Start one metre right and climb the bulging wall to a shallow depression. Traverse right with hands on the obvious horizontal break to reach a tree belay directly above the neb.

  • 36 - Pluto

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1999
    Rating: 0

    The twin hanging cracks on the right of the large overhanging neb.