LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

South Africa Area

  • 27 - Vorster`s Groove

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres left of the short arête below a cracked corner. Climb the corner and exit rightwards.

  • 28 - Game Reserve

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the long, slim crack two metres left of the corner. Very awkward and deceptively steep.

  • 29 - South African Lawn Tennis Association

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
    Rating: 1

    Start below the cracked wall to the left of the arête. Climb the thin cracks to a gnarled stump. Move back up and go right to finish at the arête.

  • 30 - Preston`s of Bolton

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
    Rating: 0

    Start one metre farther left at a wide crack in a corner. Climb this and the undercut rib above.

  • 31 - Springbok

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    Just two metres to the left is a thin crack. Climb this and the short hanging groove above.

  • 32 - Tutu

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    Climb the crackline just to the left of a high yew on the rock.

  • 33 - Cullinan

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 1

    A gem of a route. Just to the left is a blunt arête on the right end of a smooth wall. Take a line up the right edge of this wall via a small pocket at half-height (crux). The grade can be reduced to 5c by taking the arête on its right side.

  • 34 - Cultural Elite Sign-up Sheet

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Start directly below an obvious right-facing hold at three metres. Gain this direct, then finish rightwards past a tree.

  • 35 - Sharpeville

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    The left-slanting crack and a bulge on the left.

  • 36 - Simonstown

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
    Rating: 0

    The deep-cracked corner with a bulge at the top.

  • 37 - Democracy

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    A low-level traverse of the wall from Simonstown to Tutu.

  • 38 - Wildebeest

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    Gain a scoop two metres to the left by some awkward moves, then finish up easier rock.

  • 39 - Dark Continent

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 1

    The short, wide crack on the left is climbed to a ledge, then finish up the shallow, stepped corners on the left.

  • 40 - Betel

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 1

    Start about 10 metres farther left, at a shallow groove three metres left of a gnarled oak tree in the centre of the crag. Climb the groove, to a good handhold, then easier rock leads to the top.

  • 41 - Pepul

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1989
    Rating: 0

    Start at the foot of the second groove left of the big oak. Climb the left-trending groove towards the bleached, dead yew. Move up and right over the overlap on good holds. Finish up the cracked rib to the left of a tree-filled groove.

  • 42 - Two-timer

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
    Rating: 0

    Start at the front face of the huge block. Climb this to a ledge and crevasse. Step across this and climb the fine cracked slab above.

  • 43 - Yew Tree Drive

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    Start directly behind the large yew tree and climb to an obvious ledge either by a flaky wall, or the short groove on its left. Continue up short walls above and to the left of a yew.

  • 44 - Final Score

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1975)
    Rating: 0

    A pleasant climb. Start two metres to the left, below the shallow obvious groove in the upper slab above the ledge. Climb the steep wall via flakes to the holly. Climb the easy groove above.

  • 45 - Stranded in the Jungle

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres to the left, below the yew tree at the left-hand end of the long ledge. Climb up and rightwards to a ramp and short crack, then gain the ledge and finish up Final Score.

  • 46 - Evil Primevil

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall a metre left of the tree to the break. Above this the rock is poor and it is best to escape down the tree, though the top has been climbed.

  • 47 - Anybody Out There

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall three metres left of the tree to a break and a good hold. Continue up the wall above on good rock.

  • 48 - Darkening

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    The flake crack and blocky groove just to the left.