LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Waterfall Buttress

  • 39 - Bloomer

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    At the left side of the back wall climb the crack which forms a shallow groove at the left.

  • 40 - Groper

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Six metres right, climb the shallow groove, then step left and finish on poor holds.

  • 41 - 30-Foot Wall

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1980-83)
    Rating: 1

    Climb 40-Foot Corner on to the slab, then go diagonally left to the arête and follow this to the top.

  • - Pitch 1

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    A direct start is possible at 6a.

  • 42 - 40-Foot Corner

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1960
    Rating: 0

    The deep corner left of Waterfall Buttress proper.

  • 42a - Wall Variation

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1970
    Rating:

    Start up 40-Foot Corner, then follow the weakness on the wall right of the upper section of that route.

  • 43 - Canine Crucifixion

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1967
    Rating: 2

    A miniature classic. Not as grand as some of its illustrious neighbours, but nevertheless, containing technical interest aplenty and a well-protected crux. The left edge of Waterfall Buttress proper is an arête. Climb the crack just right of this to its end. Move up and right then go back left to finish easily up a short corner.

  • 44 - Chikarna

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1988
    Rating: 0

    Start about three metres to the right and climb the the wall for about three metres, then traverse left to a small undercling and some protection. Continue directly to a peg below the top overlap, then swing left to an easy finish up Canine.

  • 45 - Brastium

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1969
    Rating: 1

    Climb the steep crack that starts just over a metre farther to the right. This route is sometimes obscured by a waterfall and in such conditions the grade and quality may alter somewhat.

  • 46 - Betty`s Wall

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 2

    Rowland Edwards` last contribution at Wilton, still gives good value. From the crumbling ledge on Route Four move left and go up to the base of a shallow groove (peg), then finish up this.

  • 47 - Cabbage Man Meets the Death Egg

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    The thin crackline on the right.

  • 48 - Hodgepig Boogie

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    One metre right climb the next thin crackline.

  • 49 - Route Four

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1967)
    Rating: 0

    Farther right a white streak runs down the rock; climb the loose crack which this hides.

  • 50 - Route Three

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1967)
    Rating: 0

    Three metres right climb the delicate crack.

  • 51 - Route Two

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1967)
    Rating: 0

    From Route One, traverse left beneath the overhanging wall to join and finish up Route Three.

  • 52 - Route One

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1967)
    Rating: 0

    The short, block-filled corner on the right.

  • 53 - Fire and Theft

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    A girdle of Waterfall Buttress. Follow Canine Crucifixion to the top of the crack, then traverse right and finish up Route Two.