LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Rappel Wall Area

  • 55 - Rappel Wall

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1961
    Rating: 2

    A good beginners` route. Follow the obvious weakness which splits the wall from right to left, to a chockstone at two-thirds-height. Move left and exit via a sandy scoop.

  • 56 - Peg Free

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    An enjoyable climb up the right side of the wall. Start just left of the right arête of Rappel Wall and either climb thin crack that curve rightwards towards the arête, or follow a line of jugs on the left side of the arête. Continue up a short crack to a small ledge, then traverse left to finish up Rappel Wall.or Barbecue.

  • 57 - Shivers Arête

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 2

    Climb the right-hand side of the arête on good holds to a spike runner, then press on up the arête to a peg below the crux and pass this by a hard move, to gain the top. The finishing move can feel quite precarious. All the difficulties are concentrated into the last couple of moves.

  • 58 - Canopy

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 1

    Start just left of the corner of Kay and climb diagonally left to the bottom of a thin peg-scarred crack; follow this passing a small overlap.

  • 59 - Rappel Wall Indirect

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1961
    Rating: 0

    Climb the deep corner of Kay to a ledge at four metres, then follow a line of ledges leftwards to the arête. Step up a little, then traverse left to finish up Rappel Wall.

  • 60 - Kay

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 2

    The deep corner on the right gives good climbing and is easier than it looks.

  • 61 - Easy to Cheat

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1982-85)
    Rating: 0

    Follow Crooked Crack to the overhang, then pull leftwards on to the wall and finish straight up.

  • 62 - Crooked Crack

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1963
    Rating: 2

    A popular route with variety and protection. From the deep corner gain the ledge near the bottom and from the right of this climb the crack which splits the overhang to a mantelshelf on the lip, then follow the crack.

  • 62v - Variation

    Grade: | First Ascent: )
    Rating:

    Variation: from the mantelshelf on the lip, escape to a ledge on the right and finish to the left.

  • 63 - The Gay Dwarves and Mr Plod Go to the Tupperware Party

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    Climb the dirty wall between Crooked Crack and Mo direct, on disposable holds.

  • 64 - Mo

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 1

    To the right is an orange patch with a crack on either side. Climb the wall below, then use both cracks until it is possible to finish, using the right one.

  • 65 - Miney

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 0

    The thin, ragged crack on the right is gained by the wall on the right, and is climbed using holds on the wall.

  • 66 - Meeny

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 0

    The wide crack on the right is reached by a subsidiary crack, then climbed on jams, or as a layback.

  • 67 - Eeny

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1962
    Rating: 0

    The short crack starting halfway up the wall is reached by climbing the wall below.

  • 68 - North Wall

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Ascend the centre of the short buttress which stands out on the right.