This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1963
Rating: 0
Follow the arête as near as possible.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 1
An explosive, bouldery start gains access to a fingery and sustained crack. Excellent protection. Start immediately left of Cement Mix. Pull up and move left to the obvious thin crack, then climb this to a finish up Cement Mix. A thin, fingery dash usually pays dividends on the technical start.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
Six metres left of the corner climb the obvious, semi-rubble-filled groove.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
The steep wall between Cement Mix and Short Corner.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1981
Rating: 0
Follow the corner on the right easily to a peg near the top. Pass this by a couple of hard moves.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0
Follow vertical drill-holes two metres
Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0
Four metres to the right of the corner is a sloping ledge at three metres. Gain this and move up the slab above, then swing diagonally right and finish up the niche above.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
A serious line up the wall to the left of Shallow Groove.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 2
Good protection makes this high-stepping crux very enjoyable. The obvious steep groove six metres right of the corner.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 3
Balance and concentration makes this route a delight to climb. Lose either one of these and it could all go horribly wrong. Make committing, friction-type moves up the slabby nose just right to an overlap and peg. Move right to gain a good hold, then pull boldly on to the wall above and climb this.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1974-75)
Rating: 1
Climb the shallow groove on the right, then continue up the thin crack with a difficult move to finish.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1974-75)
Rating: 1
Climb to a sentry-box just right, gain entry to this and finish straight up above the break.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
A steep line of scoops just right of Kung Fu.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0
Start three metres to the right and climb a series of scoops to a grassy finish.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0
Start one metre right and climb the wide crack to a ledge, then finish up the wall above.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1974-75)
Rating: 1
Good climbing up the left-facing groove one metre to the right. The Traverse of the Beer Drinking Gods (E4, 6a,6a) starts at Arête Not and traverses the walls in two pitches finishing up The Bod. Obviously, there is `crater potential` on much of the route!
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 1
Previously pegged as Ace of Spades. Climb the steep groove right of The Bod. Short and sharp.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1978
Rating: 3
A classic route of this grade, offering a pumpy little crux passing the peg. Climb Throsher to the second large ledge, then traverse left to below a hanging groove. Nip up this (peg), to a rest below the roof, where a quick tweek on the nipple helps to pass the roof and so gain the top.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 2
Good protection and enjoyable moves make this a popular route at this grade. The thin crack, just left of the arête which overlooks the pit.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1973-75)
Rating: 0
Climb to the ledge at three metres, and swing right, around an arête, into a groove above the pit. Ascend up this boldly to the top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1974-75)
Rating: 0
The next groove, which starts from the left side of the large ledge. Smut Ball Fungus (E4, 6a): goes right from Twin at three metres and follows the wall above.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 0
The crack and shallow groove in the centre of the left wall.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0
From the darkest recesses of the cleft, mantel on to a ledge on the left then go back right into the cleft to finish.
Grade: 7a | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 1
The radically overhanging wall right of Scout Cleft, passing two bolts.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0
Climb the crack on the right arête of the bay, then steep slabs lead to the top.
Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 3
Once a ‘Last Great Problem’ of the quarries, the S-shaped feature (previously known as `S` Groove) in the steep wall left of Frostbite more often than not lulls one into a false sense of security before violent rejection just below the top. Side runners.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1974-75)
Rating: 1
The shallow corner which bounds the leaning wall on its right.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 1
The right-slanting crack one metre farther right, which bounds the steep slab on its left.