LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Main Wall

  • 29 - The Hornet

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    Previously known as Keep off the Grass. Start just left of the initial crack of The Bee, at a short groove. Climb this avoiding an illegal ledge on the left, then finish up the short wall above.

  • 1 - Little Wall

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 0

    Climb the middle of the slab, with a technical move to get off the ground.

  • 30 - The Bee

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 2

    A justly popular route, exciting, but with not too bad a sting in the tail. At the base of the descent route is a short diagonal crack leading to a ledge at three metres. Climb this then step down left on to the face and climb boldly to a break and the top.

  • 2 - Captain Hookleg

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb direct past the tree stump and follow thin crack above to big ledges.

  • 31 - The Wasp

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 0

    Climb the short arête right of The Bee to a ledge, then climb up using the thin crack in the rib above.

  • 3 - Resurrection

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Just left of a tree stump in the rock three metres above the ground climb the obvious crack.

  • 32 - Laying the Ghost

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    From a couple of metres up Slanting Slab swing left to a thin crack (peg) and follow this to the top.

  • 4 - Sorry Sid

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres to the left in an overhung niche and climb direct, stepping right at three-quarters-height, then finish direct.

  • 33 - Slanting Slab

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 1

    Three metres past the short rib of The Hornet. Climb the narrow slab.

  • 5 - Angel`s Kiss

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    The unprotected off-width crack one metre to the left.

  • 6 - Wiggerley Worm

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Start a couple of metres right of Please Ring the Plumber, at an obvious crack, and climb this.

  • 34 - Savage Stone

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 2

    Climb Direct until it is possible to swing left into the hanging groove and climb it desperately past one good hold and one peg

  • 7 - Please Ring the Plumber

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    The often-damp groove just right of the point at which the trees finish.

  • 35 - Direct

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    Layback up the corner which bounds the leaning buttress on its right.

  • 8 - The Red Rose

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    A couple of metres to the left, climb twin cracks to the wide upper crack. Layback this to the top.

  • 36 - Kukri Crack

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    The clean crack, obvious by its name, in the wall right of Direct.

  • 9 - Faith and Energy

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall just left of Red Rose, with the crux low down.

  • 37 - Spline

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    Ascend a shallow corner on the left arête of Deep Groove to a large ledge, then take the corner on the left.

  • 10 - Lace

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Three metres to the left, past a blank slab is a crack. Climb this in its entirety.

  • 38 - Deep Groove

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    Follow the large groove to the ledge, then the corner above.

  • 11 - Gauntlet Route

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 2

    Originally climbed with a motorcycle glove placed over a pointed branch which would have impaled anyone taking a fall above the groove. This has now been pruned to discourage the wrong sort of visitors to the crag. Left again is a deceptively-easy-looking groove; climb this and the overhanging crack above to finish on good jugs. Strenuous.

  • 39 - Meandering Molly

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    From two metres up Deep Groove traverse rightwards to the arête, then go up this and the centre of the short wall behind.

  • 12 - The Prayer Battery

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    Climb the groove just left of Gauntlet Route, past suspect blocks (exciting).

  • 40 - Cross Tie

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    Climb the arête for three metres then move left into the centre of the wall and finish up this.

  • 13 - The Angel of Death

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 1

    Climbs the clean groove, which is gained by an awkward start and step right.

  • 41 - I`m Cured, Bouncy Bouncy

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (Pre-1982)
    Rating: 0

    Start slightly left of The Rapid Rambler and climb the short wall to a ledge, finish easily.

  • 14 - Angel Delight

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Start as for The Angel of Death but continue direct.

  • 42 - I`m the Rapid Rambler; Fondle Fondle

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    A tactile experience for the person who has done everything. One metre left of The Mud climb the overgrown corner groove and exit leftwards.

  • 15 - Mr and Mrs Liptrot Go to the Seaside

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall and crackline just left of Angel Delight. A crucial hold has fallen off the lower section, though the route can now be started from Angel Delight. Very sustained.

  • 43 - The Mud

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Aptly named climbing up the crack one metre left of Flake Crack.

  • 16 - Pigeon Toad Orange Peel

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 3

    The best route in the quarry. Do this in one push and you are cruising. The thin crack in the overhanging wall is climbed to the overlap by a series of increasingly technical and strenuous moves. Finish on the left.

  • 44 - Flake Crack

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 1

    Follow the obvious flake crack; very sandy after wet weather.

  • 17 - A Thief in the Night

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 2

    Another pumpy test-piece, that is both strenuous and technical. This aptly-named route takes the crackline just left of Pigeon Toad Orange Peel. Start as for that route and gain the crack on the left (peg) and follow it to the top.

  • 45 - Big Dorris

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 1

    From the base of Flake Crack climb diagonally rightwards to a thin crack in the centre of the wall, then follow this with increasing difficulty to the top.

  • 18 - The Crucifix

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 1

    This route takes the three bands of overhangs at its right side. Start four metres to the left of Pigeon Toad Orange Peel, just right of a blank groove which leads to the first small roof. Use two aid pegs in a faint crackline to gain a hold on the left, then swing round on this and layback round the first roof. Make a hard move to pass the second roof, then gain the small ledge above and finish direct. Good thread belay.

  • 46 - Painted Smile

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Climb Big Dorris for eight metres, to a no-hands rest and runners. Break out right and gain a poor peg by desperate finger tearing moves. Finish slightly more easily.

  • 19 - Exile and the Kingdom

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    An inspiring line forced direct into the impressively-positioned hanging groove in the Main Wall. Finish directly.

  • 47 - Falling Crack

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 2

    A classic sandbag, but it is well protected. After a reasonable start, this classic crack pitch suddenly demands special commitment. Only those with unwavering confidence make it to the top unruffled. The prominent crack in the centre of the wall is followed to a hard move into a niche where the crack narrows. Finish more easily over the overhang.

  • 20 - Threshold of a Nightmare

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Start six metres to the left at an obvious crack/groove. Surmount the initial overlap, then climb the slab on the right to the roof. Go through this and finish directly past peg runners.

  • 48 - Wilton Wall

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1969
    Rating: 3

    Another old peg climb that has come into its own as an unaided test-piece. Climb Falling Crack for three metres then traverse right on a detached block to a crack. Climb the crack, with a hard move to stand on a flat hold. Enter the upper groove by a further hard move and gain the large ledge. Finish easily. The direct start is 6a.

  • 21 - Jemima Puddleduck

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Start as for Threshold of a Nightmare, but continue straight up the blocky groove until above the large roof on the right a traverse right can be made above the overhang to a flake. Go up a flake, then step right and finish up the rib.

  • 49 - Pigs on the Wing

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 3

    Technically absorbing climbing with some exceedingly thin pulls. Start just left of The Swine. Climb up leftwards then go straight up on small holds to gain good holds (nut) leading right across the wall to The Swine. Climb the thin crack just left of The Swine to the ledge.

  • 22 - The Last Supper

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: 0

    Surmount the initial overlap as for Jemima Puddleduck then step left above the large overhang on the left to gain a good hold at the base of the hanging wall. Move left, then up this wall to reach a grassy corner on the left and follow this to the top.

  • 50 - Pigs Direct

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 2

    Although most climbers will probably heave a sigh of relief when they reach the good holds on the original route, gluttons for punishment can trade the easier finish for some even thinner moves. Climb Pigs on the Wing to the good hold, then continue very boldly up the wall above.

  • 23 - The Hollow Men

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    A high left-to-right traverse of the wall, starting up Jemima Puddleduck and finishing up Angel Delight.

  • 51 - The Swine

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 3

    Crack the crux at four metres and you can spend the rest of the day posing on the good finishing holds. Start three metres left of Iron Orchid and climb diagonally rightwards (crux) to gain good holds just left of the arête at six metres. Continue to a peg and finish straight up.

  • 24 - Knight of the Bath

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Start six metres to the left and climb a small corner, then traverse right across the smooth groove of The Last Supper into a block-filled groove and finish up this.

  • 52 - Iron Orchid

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 3

    The E points are for the excellent moves up the bold arête, but the 6b is all saved for the sting in the tail. Climb the right arête of the Main Wall to a peg at eight metres, move up then traverse right to another peg in an overhanging scoop. Climb the blunt right arête of the scoop to gain the large ledge.

  • 53 - Dancers at the End of Time

    Grade: 5c,6b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 2

    Previously known as Main Wall Traverse.

  • 53.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Start under Saturday Crack and traverse up and left to the arête. Peg belay.

  • 53.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Continue traversing left at the same height, crossing Wilton Wall and Falling Crack to finish up Big Dorris.

  • 54 - Two PVC Girls Go Slap Happy

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    The wall just left of Saturday Crack with two pegs (one missing).

  • 55 - Saturday Crack

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 1

    Right of the Main Wall the wall falls back; climb the prominent V-groove.

  • 56 - Dirty Corner

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
    Rating: 0

    Start one metre to the right and climb the wide crack to a grassy ledge, then finish up the corner itself.

  • 57 - Flight of the Condom

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Start two metres right of the corner and climb the wall above, moving right into Loose `n` Even `Arder to avoid a loose finish.

  • 58 - Loose `n` Even `Arder

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    This is a resurrection of Loose `n` `Ard. Climb the crack on the left side of the large rock scar.

  • 59 - Mad Duck`s Disease

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Climb the thin, right-leading crack on the right edge of the large rock scar, then finish up Smokey.

  • 60 - Smokey

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    The wide crack on the right.

  • 61 - Ringing Wall

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the centre of the wall on the right, using loose flakes.

  • 62 - Buttocks

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 1

    The short crack in the centre of the next buttress, then move left and finish up a short, chimney groove.

  • 63 - Crack and Chimney

    Grade: | First Ascent: (1974-75)
    Rating: 0

    The crack on the right of the buttress is either climbed direct, or via a crack one metre to the left.